I think I remember that Matt Ryan built something similar way back in his thread. I’d be interested in seeing what you are doing with your slip roll, Rindert. I’ve thought about building one myself for a while now but never got it bumped up in the queue.
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Hi Tom,
Kind of hard to give a word description that would tell you anything you cant just see by looking at youtubes. But one critical part is the bearings. I’m using spherical bearings from aliexpress, because they will not be destroyed when the rolls flex, and because of very high load capacity. Machining is not yet complete, but I think you get the basic idea. The two end pieces were tack welded together to simplify machining.
Rindert
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That’s impressive work Rindert. Do you have a mill to rout out those pieces?
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This tire tool was junk. The plastic parts were too fragile and brittle. Definitely “do not recommend”.
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My friend has a mill. He let me use it.
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I ordered these punches today. Pretty cheap, they may just be junk but I thought they may be good for making gaskets. I think the fan is developing quite an odor.
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Anybody have or use one of those Vulcan Tig welder s from Harbor freight?
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That punch set looks like a really good deal if they work okay,.
A lot easier than making you own the way I do it, unless you need custom sizes:
Pete Stanaitis
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That is likely the sodium silicate type of stove cement. It becomes hard and not flexible. Truly similar to concrete. When it sticks - it is difficult to remove. Silicone can be simply cut or scraped off or wire brushed to remove.
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It works well and has held up so far and remains flexible. I used it on the rope seal on the lid of the heat exchanger. I had over 400 degrees at the rails, so it looks like it really is a high temperature silicone. It is also so much easier to use in a caulk gun than trying to squeeze out the red stuff.
GC
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I screwed up! Sorry. I should have looked closer at the name rather than the tube. That is the silicone not the refractory mortar. Their mortar is black and is a sodium silicate product.
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I noticed it was a different brand from the one I have. I’ve put body weight on mine with no issues.
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I had a pair of US military surplus hydraulic bead breakers. I only used one a couple times. First time was on a tire from my 1960ish Pettibone Shovel Loder. It’s a 5 cu/yd capacity end loader that weighs in the 35,000 lbs range. The tires are 26.5x25. One of the original tires needed a boot put in. I can’t remove a tire and wheel assembly without destructive methods. The wheel nuts are married to the studs. So bringing the assembly to a tire shop for lower cost repairs than a field service call was not much of an option. I used the hydraulic bead bead breaker, a Blackhawk autobody spreader foot, bottle jacks between the loader and tire, hammer driven spoon, bead hammer and a multitude of pinch bars and pry bars to break the tire down. I spent an entire exhausting day just to dismount the tire. It was the worst tire I ever successfully dismounted.
The following year we got fed up with a tire on the same machine going flat every month. Refilling a tire of that size easily takes 20 minutes. I was told of a tire service tech who would work on it for me after hours for much less cost than typical. I called him.
He asked if I could prepare the machine for him by blocking up the machine on cribbing. “Yup - no problem.” He said he needed it cribbed - not simply up on blocks. “Yup - I understand.” He indicated he would have to see this for himself. He arrived to find the rear of the machine lifted off the ground and resting on a cribbing made of 6"x8 " high way guard rail timbers 4ft long that were stacked in alternating directions. Much like a log cabin. He was quite happy with my work. He commenced to use the truck mounted knuckle crane and a heavy nylon strap around the tire to pull and push the tire each way on the rim. It was surprising to see the 35,000 lbs machine sliding around on the cribbing as he used the crane to pull and push on the tire. It didn’t take long before the tire yielded and came loose on the rim. I was impressed. Sure was faster than my experience with the front tire on the same machine.
He cleaned up the rim beads, the tire, dumped in a couple gallons of tire sealant into the tire and installed it on the rim with a new O-ring for the multi-piece rim. Out came a 5 gallon bucket with about 4 gallons of thick tire mounting paste. He proceeded to pack the space between the tire beads and the rim with the paste. Then started filling with air. I was surprised to see that the tire paste was viscous enough to cause the tire to expand. The paste would start blowing out and the guy simply pushed it back in. Then I realized the tire was continuing to expand. The paste was squeezing out - not blowing out. The guy started wiping off the excess and putting it back into the bucket for reuse. He said yellow soap or even vegetable shortening could be used but were not quite as nice for the purpose.
When the tire was finally filled up with air I got the bill. $80.
I’ve used vegetable shortening a number of times since. It works. I mounted one of the loader tires using a 1/2 hp portable air compressor this fall. 3 cans of shortening, a can of starting fluid, and a propane torch to use as a long match. Boy - I am so glad I paid to have someone repair that one tire 28 years ago. The lesson of using tire mounting paste to get a tire to seal to the rim enough to expand was worth every penny.
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When i start working on this it hit me: why don’t share it, if someone didn’t know this method?
Well, can you repair thin, cracked aluminum without a working tig-welder? Yes, oxy/acetylene welding (tricky) riveting and/or bolting (may not look good in some places, or soldering. There are special soldering rod’s for aluminum but they are often expensive!
So here is a old trick: use ZINC! and a ordinary propane torch (oxy/acetylene doesn’t work, because of faster oxidation, and free carbon)
Propane torch.
I had the luck to find pure Zinc rod’s, but cheapest alternative is to use a sacrificing anode, used on boats, and some water heaters, just saw, or cut thin strips, works very well.
As this came to mind when i started, i never snapped a pic of the crack, this thin aluminum shroud was cracked almost all the way, the holes are from a repair before (stitching with steel wire)
Grinded to the left, looks a little clumsy, needs to be grinded to look good.
When soldering, heat proper, not to much so the aluminum melts (melts fast, without any warning) then “rub” the zink into crack, and when zinc is “floating” scratch the edges of the crack with a tiny screwdriver, or sharp pointy stainless steel wire, this is to break both surface tension, and oxide layer.
Holes to be filled.
Filled up.
After some grinding it looks good enough for me, if done right, the repair becomes almost as strong as the material.
Works on many aluminum alloys, with not much magnesium.
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Sorry, i forgot some in above, extreme cleaning is necessary, a stainless steel wire brush works best.
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I had no idea it could be done with zinc, just a couple of months ago I used propane and an electric cookplate together with Alutite to fix a cracked aluminium top for a greasegun.
Does it have strength to it as well with zinc or is it more like soft soldering?
Just so I know in the back of my head for future reference.
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Hi Johan, i haven’t found much difference in strenght between alutite and pure zinc, but if i would try to fix something really exposed to mechanical stress, i would use alutite, maybe it “fleets” a little better.
The idea of using zinc i found in a very old welding book, then i found a bunch of these zinc rod’s and tried (it really irritated me when 100kr worth of alutite suddenly just splashed on the floor 
)
The idea of using sacrificing anodes i found in classic motor magazine (those anodes actually is purer zinc than the rods)
Ah, and about strenght, i’ve bent sheet aluminum repaired with zinc, without the repair cracking.
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I’m a little surprised that it still held together bending it, promising results.
Good tips, both he use of zinc and where to get it too. Thanks 
Edit: when using Alutite and perhaps zinc too, I found it very helpful to do it on an electric stove/cookplate to get the material already up to a baseheat to not risk melting aluminium with a torch for instance, the stove can get well over aluminiummelting temperatures so keep track of the temperature.
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Probably, the seam held together good because of it being slightly thicker than the sheet around, but it’s often good enough, can’t have too big expectations on aluminum repairs
Cookplate was a good tip, i once tried to alutite solder a inlet manifold i modified, i ended up wrapping it in rockwool, using a big kerosene blow-torch, and a standard propane torch, it didn’t work very well, aluminum is good at “carry away” heat.
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Thank you wers much for this tip Goran!
What about flux? You use none?
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