Nobody ever finishes a tinker project, they either get used as is with many “temporary” things that become permanent, or they get stuck in “project purgatory” i think we all have a project or 2 that"I’ll get around to it" is something you mumble when you move it around the shop after stubbing a toe on it bi-anually. But getting out from under big brothers gas taxing thumb, I’m pretty sure I can get that one done. Besides, something to tinker on while saving gas money for other projects, maybe even a project the wife wants done?? 2 birds stoned with the same joint!
Not the popular opinion here Marcus, but mine is, for all the reasons you listed in your response to Ron, us that any one of those sensors has you stranded or barely limping along. All fine and dandy if you drive highways and triple A can come and retrieve you. Being an adept mechanic there’s not much on a carbed, distributor timed ignition truck that you couldn’t fix with a few tools.
Living out here mountainous West Coast TomH. it is really common in hunting seasons, or just the nice summer season drivin’lookin’ can to go from 300 feet to 4000 feet in 90 minutes. Or less. EFI give the Baro sensed change can do this smoothly seamlessly. Carbs cannot. Jetted for the High, then go over-lean for the Low. Jetted for the Low; then over-rich for the High.
The past early mid-80’d to mid 90’s mainline EFI systems are not all that bad.
Mech-a-nicks say, “It’s all just nuts and bolts.” Fabricator guys and welders just say, “It’s all just metals.”
EFI guys just say, “It’s all just Inputs and Outputs.” Especially by the early 90’s ones they have pretty excellent limp-home systems. Well known points to beef up.
Past 1996 and later, later . . . .well . . . keep your snatch tow strap handy. Travel in pairs.
S.U.
I can claim at 31 years of age, iv never been towed home so far…may have done quite a few self recovery’s, a push start or ten, even one time lost fuel pump and rigged washer fluid squirters to drive it home, spun 2 out of 4 rod bearings and broke one rod and drove it home, several sticks through the radiator drove it home, and more. But never towed also helps to know what went wrong if it’s worth fixing after or not. When I broke the rod and spun bearings it was an estimated guess it “might” make it home. Had to put it in 4 low to get up the driveway, but had a spare motor in the shop waiting for it. I’ll definitely be relocating the tank to the spare tire mount under the bed with a nice fuel cell to make room for the gassifier to drop through the bed, and hopefully figuring how to “hybrid” so I’ll have a back up fuel source to get home. But I agree carbs are so much simpler to work on and repair in my mind. But Iv done enough years of automotive repair in pretty versed in understanding today’s fuel systems and how they function. But only in stock form of course. I’m interested to know how adding a reostat to the fuel pump relay, essentially being able to induce a controlled voltage drop, will effect the firing of the injectors. Maybe I’m overthinking it as I often do but in my mind dropping voltage to the pump will slow the pump down, but in a standard efi system once proper fuel pressure is hit is when the computer signals the all ok to fire the injectors. In my head the injectors still have normal pressure per the fuel pressure regulator on the end of the fuel rail, but potentialy when the low voltage to the pump is dropped and fuel pressure hence drops, computer then won’t fire injectors due to lack of fuel pressure. At least thats how the old Chevy tbi systems ivessed with for many years worked. Those pumps were know to die out and get loud before they took a dump and a simple pressure test would reveal low pressure and conclude a no start diagnosis as a failed fuel pump. Often a few thumps on the fuel tank and pressure would spike back to normal enough to get you home as I did several times in my old Saturn. Is my train of thought right here or am I missing something? Iv never observed fuel pressure on a Toyota as the pumps rarely go bad and with obd1 my scanner won’t hook up and watch live stream data that I can with later obd 2 systems. I know I can watch pressure on the dodge systems, but not sure how it functions
Hmmm. Best to just stick with figuring your early OBDI Toyotas out.
All of the manufactures at a certain time (late 80’s) had to put in systems for the electrically driven EFI fuel pump to be STOPPED after a crash/roll-over. So’s as not to keep pumping raw fuel onto a maybe fire.
Ford used their steel-ball inertial fuel pump circuit interrupt stiches.
Chrysler/Dodge went with a “safety circuit relay”. Cut power to the relays for the fuel pump, injector drivers, and even the PCM. I think this is how most Toyotas went too.
GM, being GM: did their thing as you’ve found. Later systems very closely monitoring spark energy, voltages and such.
Only after ~2008-11 did the manufactures start putting on fuel pressure sensors.
You early Toytota does not monitor fuel pressure. It Assumes it’s ok.
Most post 1996 OBDII systems then with the short and long term fuel trims % adding will Light-on code out. Even go into Limp-in take away trans gears. Later systems with coil-over plugs ~2003 and later take away cylinders injector fueling and spark firing to force you to limp-in and park it. “To save the catyalitc converter.” Manufacturers were then on the hook for cats lifes up to 8 years/80K. Why they then went to long life platinum and later iridium spark plugs. Keep that cat happy.
And any sigle manufacturers leading up to 1996 OBDII; and then later had to revise their control system every 3-5 years for new regulations mandates.
Gets turkey-tricky. Once they are using self-learning system fully capable of relevancy logic and feeding in a missing sensors “should-be” substitute data value into the general all-use data stream.
And the latest system ~2014-15 are using variable voltage driven fuel pumps. Get rid of the pressure regulator. Compensates for pump motor and pumping elements wear.
Unfortunately on the later OBDII stuff it is a try and see pretty much.
Try and stick with EFI control systems with lots of hot-rodding/off-roading usages.
Ha! Ha! And that’d be your Toyota pickups alright.
Steve unruh
Ford inertia switches…(knashing of teeth) worst engineered switch to EVER be installed in a factory off road truck! Set to trip at 35 degrees in any axis. Bout got me and my brother killed several times hunting in his ext ranger. Worst thing to happen during steep ascent on a logging road is for ecm to shut off fuel supply, killing the truck, losing power brakes and power steering, and go sliding down a mountain side backwards at high rate of speed. I physically shake with anger to think about that cursed switch. One of many reasons I swore off the Ford trucks I grew up on. Toyotas? No fuel cut! Roll it over on it’s lid, dump clutch and hope a tire touches the ground, rip it into a cyclone and back on it’s wheels! Ya it smokes a bit when the oil rushes to the head, but your back on the trail and having fun and all the boys got to watch a wild display of wide open throttle goodness. I’d be lying to say I didn’t love the 22re motor, tough as nails as long as you keep it cool and don’t pop the head gasket.
Hard to teach a dinosaur new tricks Steve. No argument with what you have said but any vehicle totally dependent on 50 psi of fuel pressure with injectors dependent on an ECU and relays doesn’t make me all warm and fuzzy when I start adding up the things that could go wrong. However I once made it home in a 79 Bronco with a gas can ratchet strapped to the hood feeding a carb. The marvels of gravity. As far as dual fuel goes, a set up for a propane carb allows switching back and forth from petrol to propane with a couple of solenoid switches. No reason the same couldn’t be done with wood gas. The other reason ECU control is considered superior is the ability to control timing. I’m not saying I’m every going back to points unless China were to detonate an EMP warhead over the country but about 500 bucks puts you in an MSD ignition with cab controlled timing. I’ll shut up about the whole thing now.
Iv set up several toyotas over the years with mad, never a fuel injected one though. Might be worth looking into for in cab timing control. I know it can easily be done with a cable ran in the cab. I did momentarily debate in my mind using the stock 22r, switching to a 2 barrel offenhauser intake and dumping on Holly sniper efi. Talk about the expensive route, but it is a very reliable self learning live date efi system in a very small package. Food for thought on a later build maybe. I know this won’t be my only foray into the woodgas world for sure!
Well I just wrote and then erased three paragraphs of stuff about prepping for “sold-fears”. Sheee. Take that fears right down to just a hammer and a blade saw. Pounding out using woodcharcoal.
My brand spanking new thin sheet SS capable inverter MIG welder? EMF O.K.? With it’s metal housing shielding. Or EMF, Nay? Just because it’s Italian “electronic”. Sheee.
Tom just how long could a fellow milk out his oxyacetylene torch set, eh? Not long enough.
I am never going back to ignition points. Have spare coil-pacs for all of my critical small engines now. I have one or the other heat-use die about once in every three years. STILL better than twice a year points fritzing. After becoming arm sore cranking.
I did have an MSD system way back in 1978-82. Piggy backed them onto Hall chopper wheel; Inductor(Motorola) and Perlux optical retrofit points-replacement systems.
The later MSD systems with on-the fly timing control, even better.
I put up once here on the DOW an info-link to retrofitting 70/80’s Ford-GM-Chrysler ignition amplifier modules to flywheel Hall triggered ignition systems. O.K for 1 to 12 cylinders. Internet searchable. Find. Download. Hard-copy print-out. Then piggy back the new MSD onto that.
Now here is done-it, tried-it information here on the DOW.
Wood gasifing gasoline carburetor system IS NOT JUST LIKE propane or methane gas fueled engines systems!!! Propane and methane are pressure delivered to their mixers.
Gasoline carburetors SUCK their liquid fuel. Woodgas system really have to suck their fuel gases. Horrible incompatibilities between these two different sucking actions systems.
Magnifying Glass topics search this up here on the DOW. I refuse to repeat hundreds of posts on this. Woodgas below thru carb. Woodgas thru the carb. Two pedal systems Gahhkk.
EFI is just so damn easy to woodgas in comparison. Don’t just believe me. Read the Done-it. Driving-it, Projects here.
The easiest trick of it is use the later late 80’s thru early 90’s EFI, OBDI factory systems. With still ignition distributors.
Coil-pac, and coil-over-plug systems, (distributor-less) are being done. But expect a whole different level of commitment. Expects set-backs. Course reversals. And just will not work disappointments.
Just like the the four valve, cam twister engines will get wood gassed now too. No choice in many areas now.
Doesn’t have to be you doing these.
Someone else. Watch. Read and see.
Regards
Steve Unruh
SteveU. I sit at this desk a couple hours a day looking at old entries on this site. There is just too much to uncover without some hints. Oxy- acetylene? Don’t remember what that is. Have’n’t refilled my tanks or bought shielding gas since I burned down my shop just because I’m practicing in my deluded mental state for a future that these things won’t be available and I can’t produce them myself. Going on five years and I have built a lot of stuff using nothing but cut off disks. Do I miss the other stuff. absolutely but I can do just fine without it. Got a lot of cutting disks, welding rod, Flux core wire. Different strokes.
As long as I got my solar battery bank,a set of jumper cables and some 7013, pretty sure I can make anything stick together but for this build I have full access to the heavy duty diesel shop I work in tooling is no problem. Currently the materials are the problem I’m finding the fire tube is a spendy piece of material if you buy it new, and hard to find at the scrap yards.
Wayne
In the book I think I saw you mention you would try steel banding material for heat syncs, why such a thin material?
O.K.
The best tool to use on the DOW is the Magnifing Glass search Icon-tool.
Rephrase your request in several different ways to expand it out.
There is now 9 years of exchanges to select from. Most like me after the first five times answering, anymore just will not. We look for new questions. New approaches. Hunger for this actually. Kristijans double flute . . . Joni’s light weight now gonna be all SS . . .
Ha! And we each choose our handicap-hole we wish to life “trial” out of.
Mine is I will pay-more for actual walk-in retail stores. Even if I may have to drive 75 miles. Hopping around store to store.
In the last 10 years E-bay bidding; Net shopping and having electrical devises shipped to me I am 2 out of 6 destroyed by UPS/FED-EX/USPS being multiple times dropped from waist high!!
IF they weight more than 35 pounds. F’ck-it. Makes the 4 useable at far more than store retail expensive with sales tax.
Might as well not even Net look and shop for most stuff…
Amazon?? 10% unsatisfied returns on their stuff. THEN it gets re-boxed and re-sold missing bits and pieces to another hopeful. Hope don’t float boats!
As you know I will rare and specialty books Net find and buy. Light. Drop crush durable. The most that’d happen is it just does not arrive . . . shipping lost. Oh well.
S.U.
Hey Guys and once you do fine an old topic answering your question with hundreds of posts. Try going up to the first starting post. Lower edge of that: click “Read as Summery”.
Ha! Won’t hurt my feeling if I’m one of the ones hidden-out then.
S.U.
S.U.
Said
Over Head Cam engine will break loose camshaft if valve tars up .
My Chevy something mercury boat motor
3 L 4 cylinder lifted rocker arm stud .
S.U. said to weaken push rod so push rod would be point of failure .
All true Henry.
And many more to boot.
Green-beans need to be very careful, indeed.
Experienced need to push boundaries.
Whole bunch here on the DOW now doing OHC engines. Don Mannes; J.O.; Koen V.L.; KristijanL.; Joni; and a few more now.
Man’up. Do better wood gasification’s. Be strict, never-fail on your pre-starting up checks.
Accept that one-button remote starting systems; will be engines killers.
American passenger vehicles engines are ALL overhead cam since the early 2000’s except for two.
And those two: a GM/Chevy and one Dodge engines even if cam-in-block are STILL valve bending interference engines.
So there will be no choice on this in the kill-vehicles-with-road-salts areas.
The future is forwards from what is in production today.
Steve unruh
i think we all have a project or 2 that"I’ll get around to it" is something you mumble when you move it around the shop after stubbing a toe on it bi-anually. But getting out from under big brothers gas taxing thumb, I’m pretty sure I can get that one done. Besides, something to tinker on while saving gas money for other projects, maybe even a project the wife wants done?? 2 birds stoned with the same joint!
also helps to know what went wrong if it’s worth fixing after or not. When I broke the rod and spun bearings it was an estimated guess it “might” make it home. Had to put it in 4 low to get up the driveway, but had a spare motor in the shop waiting for it. I’ll definitely be relocating the tank to the spare tire mount under the bed with a nice fuel cell to make room for the gassifier to drop through the bed, and hopefully figuring how to “hybrid” so I’ll have a back up fuel source to get home. But I agree carbs are so much simpler to work on and repair in my mind. But Iv done enough years of automotive repair in pretty versed in understanding today’s fuel systems and how they function. But only in stock form of course. I’m interested to know how adding a reostat to the fuel pump relay, essentially being able to induce a controlled voltage drop, will effect the firing of the injectors. Maybe I’m overthinking it as I often do but in my mind dropping voltage to the pump will slow the pump down, but in a standard efi system once proper fuel pressure is hit is when the computer signals the all ok to fire the injectors. In my head the injectors still have normal pressure per the fuel pressure regulator on the end of the fuel rail, but potentialy when the low voltage to the pump is dropped and fuel pressure hence drops, computer then won’t fire injectors due to lack of fuel pressure. At least thats how the old Chevy tbi systems ivessed with for many years worked. Those pumps were know to die out and get loud before they took a dump and a simple pressure test would reveal low pressure and conclude a no start diagnosis as a failed fuel pump. Often a few thumps on the fuel tank and pressure would spike back to normal enough to get you home as I did several times in my old Saturn. Is my train of thought right here or am I missing something? Iv never observed fuel pressure on a Toyota as the pumps rarely go bad and with obd1 my scanner won’t hook up and watch live stream data that I can with later obd 2 systems. I know I can watch pressure on the dodge systems, but not sure how it functions