One way you could make it adjustable is have wide space between the teeth of the roller, and for engine grade you’d have a smaller gap, for forge walnut size you would use a narrow bar. Here’s how I made mine. I think the sizes it puts out is great for either downdraft or updraft charcoal. First picture it is upside down to show the guts and second picture is how I have it situated when grinding.
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It would be simple enough Goran. Make the spaces for the bigger chunks and then drill and tap the ends of the square teeth so that you could screw extensions on them for the smaller fuel sizes. Since you are into forging I need to look up the the Chuck Whitlock video of the forges he makes. I think fuel size charcoal would work just fine in one. I couldn’t locate it on the site. I’ll have to go to Youtube later.
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Chuck Whitlock’s charcoal production method also typically makes decent forge sized chunks. The wood burning over time and falling down while filling the barrel makes a good pre sized chunk.
It’s one reason why I use that method more than the other experimentations.
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Flame cap is dummy simple and the only downside is you have to be around it the entire time to feed it unlike a batch method of Matt’s design or a TLUD or retort. Matt’s design is kinda a hybrid of batch and attention required design since you can just keep feeding it until you run out of catch cans.
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OK. I admit I suck at computers. Still trying to find the videos of Chucks Daughter working the forge. So far all I can find is his business site.
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Thanks for the input guy’s, please keep it coming, 
As for now im leaning against make a roller, divided in three sections, just to be able to crush different sizes, without adjusting anything, just dump it in next section.
Just hit me, i think i just make two sections, coarse and fine.
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Still some snow, and cold weather, haven’t done anything with my woodgas truck.
Instead i’ve started a little side-project, inside my little shop, the scrappy moped i posted in the “looke
what followed me home” thread has got a engine mounted, cheap chinese clone, the rim’s got some better spokes, new tires, chain is lined up, exhaust welded together, and brakes are checked.
Now it’s a little wiring, and carb mount, then it should be ready for a test drive (on gasoline) before i convert i to charcoal gas.
This is somewhat a “just for fun” project, but it’s also serious, it should be usable.
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Made some progress on the moped today, mounted foot-pegs (is that the right word?) a smaller saddle (to make space for gasifier) and rebuilt the intake, mounted a three-way ball-valve, and adapted the carb to the left side, on other side mixer goes.
Some bad pic’s i know, but it’s hard to take pic’s with fingers covered with sealing compound, without messing up the camera/phone
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Had some spare- time for the moped project, i decided to “divide” the gas tank, by two reasons, the lower part had some rust-pinholes, so i make it a place for ignition module, and a small battery for start-up fan. Upper part used as a gasoline “reserve”.
Always scares me to cut open fuel tanks, but with a flow of compressed air no combustible mix could take place. Has used this when welding big fuel tanks, often with a vacuum- cleaner in one end, and a air-blowing-nozzle the other.
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Woodrunner; Good information for the group. When working on WG we all end up cutting tanks open. TomC
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Thank you Tom, yes one cannot be too careful when cutting tanks open, i once blowed up a 55 gallon drum when cutting it with a angle grinder, even the caps where taken off, it blowed one end out, scaring the ,…,… out of me.
One year later i’ve heard about a 15 year old boy got killed doing the same thing, working at a scrapyard not long from where i lived.
Dangerous stuff for sure.
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I usually fill the barrel with water if I suspect it had flammable liquids. I definitely fill propane tanks with water and then store upside down once I’ve taken the valves off with a wrench.
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Impressively the propane tank I cut open and used for my fire tube capsule last year, the other half that I saved has been sitting in the back room upsidedown since I built my truck with no valves in it, and still to this day if you scoot it around you get the aroma of propane. I swear the stuff seeps into the metal itself
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Yes, I also prefer water, I probably would not want to weld without having filled the tank with water.
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It is from the Ethyl Mercaptan mandated odorant added to propane. Long term usage this leaves a jellylike coating inside of everything that flowed the propane. Good for porous sealing the insides of the flexible hoses, o-ring seals and such.
Very hard to get off of the metal’s parts. Like mixers interiors.
S.U.
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The spring has come to my part of Sweden, soon time to start work with the truck again.
Til now i’ve had some progress with the moped, has just test drove it on gasoline, runs well, scary fast for a moped, have to install the brakes…
Now the fun part starts, convert it to chargas, i’ve done a “splice” at throttle cable from throttle-handle.
Going to start with the gas/air mixer, think im going to make a “double butterfly” like Gasman recomends.
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Do they do flat track motorcycle racing in Sweden Goran? No brakes allowed. Do they do Ice racing? We have that here. Tires with bolts coming out of them. I would have like to do that when I was younger but my wife said if I even thought about getting another bike she would castrate me. It was a tough choice. I wish I would have been given the choice before we had those five brats.
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Yes we have, i’ll guess it’s probably the same as we call speedway, racing in circles around an oval-shaped racing track, has became more popular again the last years. Ice-racing there are some, not much around where i live.
As for me, i prefer having some brakes, good to have if i want to stop without throwing myself to the ground.
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I like the old Uphill Racing for motorcycles. Huge rear sprockets and aggressive tires. Typically no suspension.
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@Woodrunner Did you have any other filter than the cloth filter for your Cheva?
How often did you need to clean the filter?
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