as i experienced some setback with making high temp refractory, i did some research online and came across this website.
a good guidance on how to use, make, cure, fire refractory cement…
and behold, i did follow their advice, my refractory sounds as ceramic now… 
but, i have a well controlled electric oven to play around…
Next on my list, some testing with refractory inserts, grate constructs , reduction zones,… you know, the works for a bored person 
When draining the hopper condensate if the gasifier is warm and alive there should be smoke coming out of the drain valve . If no smoke you know the piping from the gutter to the condensate tank is clogging .
When my gasifier is hot and the truck is shut off with the gas vavles closed i can turn the pusher blower on for a little bit and blow alot of smoke out of the vavle that tells me its open.
Also i use the pusher blower to blow heat though the condenser tank to help drain the tar.
Thanks Mr. Jim …
There is no substitute for experience
Maybe not the correct place to put this link ,but just in case anyones ever thinking about making solar panels in these times when they are so cheap now days
Love this hard working guy
I bought this sealant to replace this gasket that had been vaporizing and for other high temp seals . Has anyone else used this material ?
What is the maximum temperature rating?
Specs out at as heat resistant up to 240 degrees F.
Pepe
tested to 1382 degrees F , front label . Did not read whole label . I just thought it might be better the red or bronze sealant .
Main seal had hard sealant and a glass woven tape . I thought i would use this sealant with tape . fire clay is mentioned . I was also thinking of retort cement but could not find it .
I am pretty sure this was the same product I used on a building project I did - a bedroom, not a gasifier. I seem to recall it being somewhat brittle, and it seemed similar in consistency to the high temp fireplace cement.
Usually the fire stop material is designed to swelll up when heated.
Finally read label water soluble finished product dissolves in water , Guess I need to take that fire block back to store .
There was some of this material left over from a construction project at work. Got excited for a short time: hey a new product!! I looked up the specs and put it back on the shelf. Temp rating is too low, and like Andy said, this product is designed to swell up, char and slow down the progress of a fire. Probably looks like a burnt marshmallow when burning and out-gassing something like CO2. 
I just toasted my 4.5" angle grinder. I suspect a bare piece of power cord, that touched the metal I was working on with wire brush blew the circuit breaker, now the power switch doesn’t move. It was a cheap Tool Shop one, that has lasted me like 6 years. Is there a significant advantage to buying a bit better quality one then say the cheap hf one? If so, what is a good one.
Buy THREE of the H.F. upgrade ones.
Set one up with thin-cut disc.
Set one up with a thick edge grinding disc.
Set the third up with either knotted wire wheel, or wire cup cleaning wheel.
Keep all three plugged in all of the time.
Never switch change working ends again until worn out.
The one used the most will gear head start talking to you. Swap it use to the least used application then.
Enjoy then a much less frustrating FAB pace.
S.U.
I have 1 Dewalt, 1 Makita. lots of years of use out of these, but I would buy the upper end HF with the paddle switch. I don’t like the switches that stay on, too dangerous.
Wheel changing is far from the limiting factor in my fab speed unless I can’t find the stupid wrench. The dewalt has a tool-less mechanism.
They are pretty dangerous. Good point. Is upgrading to 11amps going to help?
Make that four grinders! You really want one wit a flap. Sanding disk.
Hello Don Mannes
At Argos you were asking about my CAP CAM.
Poor folks have poor ways 
I like it Wayne. But I think I will have some problems mounting my Sony Cam Recorder on the bill of the hat. Just kidding.
