All stainless Imbert

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Ben Peterson style filter assembly

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Flaring off for the kids

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Setting up the gasifier to get ready for the '76 Chevy c10 I just got. Swapping for a larger choke plate, moving nozzles up to the top row and plugging the bottom row then Resealing everything. All I’ll need to do is plumb up supply piping and make a mix valve setup for the SBC 350.

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6" choke plate with 8" diameter reduction tube that’s 10" long.

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Is your nozzle height to restriction based on Imbert/Peterson specs or WK specs? It’d be interesting to see what a Reduction would do with a WK nozzle measurement.

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Wayne Keith’s nozzle hight for the upper level. Split the difference in hight for the bottom. I’m leaving out the nozzle jets and letting the 1/2 welded coupling be the nozzle. I have choke plates already made in every size I realistically need. From small generators to my 440 dodge. So I can experiment a bit with chokes, reductions, nozzle size and hight. I can go as big as 8" choke with the support mantle that the choke rests on.

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I’m thinking of combining Mike LaRosa’s basic layout but with Peterson’s hearth layout for the Cavalier I’m soon to be getting in a trade. Mike’s system was really a WK hearth heat exchanger inside out. External air jacket that covers the hearth. I wish Mike’s old website got archived, this is one of the only images I saw of his design. Mine will obviously be welded instead of brazed and RTVd together.

Going to use two 20lb propane tanks for the hearth and bottom section, I’m thinking to go grateless. I have the perfect section of some thick 6" pipe to use as a reduction.

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Mocking the truck up on lunch breaks.

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What stainless are you using? 304?

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Nice shiny new carb Kyle. I still have visions of Marcus’s sooted up carb and Jan’s. I still think that making a spacer block under the carb big enough to feed wood gas with would be a plan.

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Yes Tom on a aspirated carburetor I think it would better no soot messing things go down through the open throat. Put a air valve on the intake horn of the air cleaner. Then you can use the same gas pedal linkage to operated the spacer intake valve coming in below the the carburetor. Just shut the gas flow off to the carburetor. I personally do not like the double gas pedel idea.
Kyle if you are going through the top just use a throttle body injection system like on the late 80’s cars and trucks. Lots of them in junk yards with the fuel pumps to go with them. Some even use external pumps.
Bob

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This top hat is ultimately temporary for now. Maintaining a duel fuel system till I run the gasifier thru it’s paces. Making sure it will be solid and reliable to dig deeper and making it permanent with a different intake system. I just rebuilt the carb so I know soot will eventually be a problem with this setup if I run it long term.

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Hey Cody, I’m not sure on the grade of stainless at the moment. But the intake top hat is aluminum for now.

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I’ve heard 304 is an ideal type for exhaust headers, it just tarnishes instead of developing real corrosion like other cheaper types of SS.

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So The plan is converting it to full woodgas, some of the members have done this.
Bob

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Inch by bloody inch :sweat_smile:










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Are you going to cut holes in the bed to get the filter and reactor sitting as low as possible? That classic looking gasifier body would look sweet in a WWII sidesaddle format like Gengas Werner has his.

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This one will stay as a skid. Bolt it to the frame thru the bed. Next truck will have a purpose built gasifier and included into the bed if I ever get another one to add to the fleet :relaxed:

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