Hi, Jan!
9.12.2020
Your wood seems to have “excellent” clogging properties…
Is this picture showing the upper end of the funnel?
The idea with the 1/3 circle steps (staircase) is to “uphold” part of the wood pillar and thereby introduce an unsymmetric avalanche, which would not “reconstruct” a stable “plugg”.
The loose fuel would hopefully creep down the funnel…
Max
OK, but it works better without the cone, so if I reduce the volume more, I think it can be worse than then.
Kanten iill locket = The edge of the lid
Hi Jan, here is a idea I never had to use once I figure out the right fuel sizing for my hopper and fire tube opening. My wood is really fractured and is in many different sizes, as big has my fist and as small as my fingers.
Hi, Jan!
9.12.2020
Yeah! Don’t try anything new! You never know how bad it would work…
Max
Max you are funny, I can’t help my self. You have see some of things I have tried.
Bob
9.12.2020
Hi, Bob!
You are a good example of trying and increasing your knowledge base with each experiment, be it something traditional, or some new idea of the day!
Glad to hear from you! Welcome to my page!
(even if I am not there…)
Max
Jan, l belive the “raising of the nozzles” means pointing them up a bit instead of being horisontal. If you remember l presented you this option a while ago when you had bridgeing and power problems.
Anyway, the point is that the upgoing air shoots some flames up towards the “bridge” and helps to collaps it.
Mr Ron L has a similar thing on his tractor, horisontal nozzles but each has a aditional small hole drilled in pointing up for the same reason
Max, I’m a little lazy, so I have to believe in what I do.
I have tested with a chain and a soot ball, without any better results.
The bridge starts 20-30 cm above the nozzles, and the nozzles only protrude 15-20 mm.
Thinking of something like this, I screw the stainless steel plate under the lid and put a motor outside, driving the rebar with the help of an angle gear.
Tried with screwdrivers, it was too weak at low revs, an elevator motor to the window of a car, would it work?
This was on gasoline, correct? What was the cause of that - tar?
Yes, it was on petrol, I guess fresh pieces of wood fell down before I had time to switch to petrol, when the alarm went off, so it became tar.
Would the tar cause sticky valves on a hot engine while running or do you think the missing is caused by weak gas after bridging?
I believe in sticky valves, I had a big hole, almost down to the grate. Poor quality of the gas should not affect the engine when I started on gasoline in the evening (if it was not tar)?
Wondering if there might have been any impact on the spark plugs, since I did not hear any noise from the valves?
So the engine was cool when the missing occurred?
I think you need to completely redo the combustion chamber of your gas gene … What is your engine size? Email me in your native language (translation from Swedish into English and then into Ukrainian looks ridiculous) and I will give you all the knowledge how to do it right.
Yes, it had stood still for several hours.
Hi Jan, the heavy bar will make more contact to thr wood in the hopper than a ball. May be @Wayne Wayne might have a answer.
Bob
The ball weighs 1.5 kilos. (3.3069 Pounds)
Hi Jan, 10 pounds is a lot more energy to bang into the wood with.
Bob
Good morning Jan .
I think before rebuilding I would do some exprementing to cause the fuel to flow better .
This is what I would experiment with . Smaller chunker fuel ( more weight to volume ratio) . Avoid chips if possible .
Up in the hopper I would mix with the wood the char/ash that has been removed from your ash bend .
May be expensive but just experiment you could mix in some shelled corn or wood pellets .
Back in 2005 -6 I was given several hundred pounds of corn to run in my truck by an agriculture agency . Flowed excellent and with plenty of power .
Keep in mind I don’t like to burn anything one could eat 
