Jan
If you think a bridge is forming ( gasifier temps rising and cool hopper ) you can switch to gasoline and no drawing of the gasifier for a couple miles . The heat will stop going down the fire tube and now the radiant heat from the char will go up and should melt tar and start the bridge to burn and fall.
When I took this picture I had stopped the generator about 3-4 miles ago, there is almost no tar, but the wood is so chipped that it sticks together.
When I had saw wood, the generator worked better, but I wish it was not so sensitive to different wood.
Jan, you already got lotâs of excellent advice. I donât want to cause your head spin more than necessary - Just one thought about the advice Max gave you:
I think what happens with a very steep funnel is that you get perfect conditions/support for a bridge/arch. Pretty much 90°.
A shallower funnel (just enough to create a clean bottom condensation trap/gutter) will give less support for a bridge to form.
I have a lot i debrie mixed with baked tar on the lower part my funnel, but it seems it actually helps preventing bridges. I couple handfulls of chunks will sometimes remain on that âstepâ, but it doesnât matter much.
Good JO, the funnel can put a squeezing pressure to the wood as it trys to slide down. Right before the wood goes in to my fire tub there is a 1/2" larger opening at the bottom of my shollow funnel. This letâs extra heat to escape up into the hopper. So the fire tube is 12" but the hopper funnel opening at the bottom is 13". There is also a 1/2" air gap of space between. This is a WK design.
Bob
As I see it, this works like this, either I get the wood left as a hanging, with cona.
Or from the bottom up, without cona.
Think it all depends on the small diameter of the fire tube (9 ").
Looked at the intake manifold, looks pretty good right?
Maybe you would benefit from using an inner hopper wall. It would keep the heat in a little and avoid chunks from cooling down and gluing together.
The throttlebody looks as good as new 
How many miles with the foam filter?
I have probably had the foam filter for a month about 100-120 miles.
Mil or miles�
Miles
Usually travels at least 25 kilometers a day (to SjöÀndan) + what we ride in the forest.
Sorry to interrupt the discussion but I need to know if you are using a WK based design and are running a 4.3 liter engine on a 9 in firetube? Still trying to figure out if I can run a 2.9 off an 8 inch firetube.
No, I have one that is more like an Imbert. I do not really know what Waynes looks like or works, because I live in Europe.
This is what mine looks like except that I use 13cm instead of 11.5 in restriction today.
Thanks. Mine is a WK design but the restriction is about the same. I canât see why it wouldnât make similar gas. I guess the only way to know is to get the engine hooked to it.
Good Morning JanA.
Seeing your drawings now and referring back to this picture I have a completely different suggestion.
Wrap you whole lower from the hopper edge down in the spun alumina-ceramic (KaWool) insulation.
Yes at least 10cm thick.
You can get this insulation from old self-cleaning kitchen ovens too.
You WILL have performance improvements. Keeping in the heat to work.
Your is now a naked piglet in the winter.
Turn it into a well dressed Sheep.
Other do this heat-in clothing with multiple gapped external and internal walls.
When you do overheat and internal metals burn-through . . . rebuild with better/thicker metals in just those parts.
Get performance first.
Then durability re-build.
Regards
Steve Unruh
The insulated gas generator housing has two useful functions; the first is heat preservation; the second is safety from the fire point of view. If the police ask you if your installation is dangerous, you just ask the policeman to touch it and if everything is cold and not red from heating, no one will blame you for the dangers and soon everyone will get used to your car and will not pay attention to you , even on a busy highway. At least thatâs what happened to me âŠ
What Steve and Jevgen say is true. I always used a insulated hopper (for reasons Jevgen stated) and never had any problem with bridgeing (that l wuld remember). There are allso other benefits like wood baking at a cooldown. Makes next startup super fast!
Ha, l feel like l am repeating my self promoting the black gold again but bare with me a quick fix is mixing a bit of peanut size charcoal with wood. It acts like a lubricant and makes fuel âflowâ better.
Yes, yes, yes, what Kristijan and Joni has said. Mixing charcoal in with the wood gives me better performance it is great. I call it my Rocket Fuel mix. Keeps the wood FLOWING into the fire tube. It absorbs the moisture and takes it to the nozzles oxidizing /reduction area and makes more Hydrogen. Try it you will like it.
Bob
Hi, Jan!
14.12.2020
Another tip, that you have not to believe in:
A vertical plate, from top to bottom. In the bottom end curved to fit the âsiloâ bottom , so it can stand straight all the way up to the lid.
Seen from above, it should take up ~1/4 â 1/3 of silo perimeter. Still from above: It would have a slight bow-form, the ends bent toward the smaller sector of the silo (seen from above).
You loose about 1/3 of the silo volume, but a part of the firetube gets a straight fall down for the fuel, with exception for the nozzles.
For clarity: This smaller silo segment stays empty and unused! The plate is âtangentingâ the firetube opening, seen from above.
âunbelievableââŠ
Max
Hi, Steve!
15.12.2020
No, I havenât. This is only a proposal for Jan to get the fuel blocking sorted. Hopefully.
If he has any condensation-mantel does not appear in his picturesâŠ
I did not start any broader proposals, as not invited to do so.
Even this seems to gain no welcomingâŠ
Max
Oh I think you were heard alright by the true metal-beaters. I can hear the shape pounding now.
S.U.
