hi göran, here a foto from the injection pump…the pump is not connected to the motor lubrification.
35 years ago a mechanican told me it is lubrificated by diesel fuel…??i dont know it is true…
the pump is leaking a little bit, so i fixed the container underneath…when it stands, i close the valve at the diesel tank…
the tractor is not often in use…
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Hi Giorgio, it’s true it’s lubricated by diesel, mostly upper part, thats why some injection pumps fail on modern eco-diesel, which is too “dry”, but an old Bosch pump like yours mostly “chew” down whatever you put in it.
As for the bottom part of the pump, Bosch pumps mostly need some oil, for bearings and the camshaft.
At your pump i think there is a breather filter above the priming/bleeding pump, there you maybe could put down a small tube and remove the oil/diesel with a vacuum pump of some kind, then fill about 100ml of standard motor oil.
My friend uses one like this when he changes the oil in the injection pump on his tractor, he changes the oil once a year, but probably not needed that often.
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Bosch Lehrfilm - Die Einspritzpumpe (youtube.com)
göran thank you very much for the information…35 years ago i brought the pump to the bosch service for a (expensive) general inspection, i hope they have changed the oil, since this time i have used the tractor about 1000 hours, hope it is in time for a oil change…
here a bosch schooling film about bosch injection pumps…in german though, but nostalgic…
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Help! I never tore apart a Dodge! Never even scrapped one. How do you separate the engine from the manual transmission? It looks like the bellhousing bolts are behind the clutch on the inside of the bellhousing. This is extraordinary. My guess is the transmission has to come out, and since this one is a manual four speed married to a transfer case, that means big trouble. The cab is so rotten, the transmission and transfer case are the cab mount…so if I pull the cab, it will never go back on. I wanna do it but…it’s 30Aug and the weather will turn soon.
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göran, on the 1 foto there is the breather filter…it can be opened and seems to be the oil fill channel, but it is angled , so it is difficult to enter with a wire…and also for take out the old oil …
on foto 3 is the lid of the centrifugal regulator chamber…do you think i can open here to extract the used oil…or is this lid connected with some funktional part??
foto 2 is a screw with a copper washer, probably the upper oil level??
when i open it a bit comes diesel out…
can you say something about?
thanks giorgio
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Hi Giorgio, i would say the big lid on photo 3 would be the best, this should be an inspection opening for the speed governor.
As i see it the screw on photo 2 is maybe a little to high for oil level, if diesel comes out, i indicates a worn injection pump, where diesel passes the pump elements, it doesn’t need to be a problem as long as it starts as it should, many of these old pumps leaks internal when standing still to long.
A good way to take care of old injection pumps is to have about 1 “cup” of good mixing two-stroke oil in the fuel, this do good for the injection pump, with todays “dry” diesel.
As the screw on photo 2 is at the end with the speed governor, it’s no fuel channel, only oil in the regulator housing, and not to much of it.
Seems i need to consult my “diesel books” some, to refresh my memory 
Edit: i just remembered, it don’t need to be worn
injector elements, the plunge type feed pump is also a common leak place, also often when standing long time.
If i remember correctly, these older feed pumps doesn’t have a seal between oil and fuel side, just a very precise fitting of the plunger, this is something that the modern diesel fuel also “attacks” it doesn’t lube that well, and is more prone to seeping by.
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thanks göran for your help…a question to diesel fuel, as you say to mix it up with two stroke oil…is this dryer diesel just common on gasoline stations or a new thing and mor expensive??
i think we have here always the same normal diesel as ever?? but dont know if it is now generally replaced by law??
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Another thing: if you move the throttle linkage fast by hand, you should “sort of hear and feel” the regulator rod moving inside, the diesel i blame for much, may cause pump elements to get stuck=stuck regulating rod, which may cause it to start and directly stall, or worse: run away! Which is very exciting with all the sound and smoke, but there is need to fast plug the air supply to choke it, or else soon a connecting rod will see the light of day.
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Well, i don’t know how your diesel is, but i guess most of Europe has this dull diesel in gas stations, generally, back in say 80-90s, one could smell a diesel mechanic a long way, even if he had taken multiple baths, and wearing his sunday suit.
This old, “fat” stinky diesel has disapeared more and more, and around year 2000 something happened that made it even worse, i worked with trucks then, and replaced 1-2 injection pumps /week. More modern unit injector and common rail types do just fine on this fuel, as they are built for it.
One way i learned was to weight diesel fuel, exactly 1 liter against “farmers diesel” (forbidden here nowadays) there was a clear difference.
Some troubles is due to mandatory mix-in of RME fuel in pump diesel, (nothing against RME) but it seems quality control of RME is’nt good enough, as traces from the process really eats stuff in the fuel system. (I’ve seen brass fuel valves corroded to “greenish goo”)
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The dry diesel is the modern diesel fuel, also known as Ultra Low Sulfur diesel. Even Agricultural Diesel is low sulfur content but not as low as Road Diesel in America(or at least in my area).
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Same here Cody, ever the “highly illegal to drive on” green dy-ed diesel are “dry” low sulphur here.
Stinking house-heating oil could sometimes be found, i drove my VW Jetta (a big brother to the Rabbit) on that stuff for a year, it ran fantastic, when i went back to pump diesel, what a dissapointment, it ran sluggish and slow, no strenght at all…
But, ofcourse, i don’t like the idea of blowing out all that sulphur in God’s green Nature either.
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Apparently Marvel Mystery Oil works great in a diesel when added to the fuel, though it does have some Sulfur content and they warn people with modern fuel sensing vehicles that it might trip an emissions code.
MMO is a strange additive because it can act as a creep lubricant because of the Wintergreen added and a cleaner because of the esters. It’s just a 5W standard oil otherwise. I don’t know how available it is in Europe though. It’s only allowed in the USA in its unchanged formula because it was grandfathered. Their new Synthetic Formula cannot/shouldn’t be added to fuel. Original MMO can’t be added to the oil if you have a turbocharger but the Synthetic can.
I should probably add 2 stroke oil to my diesel for the Kubota, it was made in the 1990s.
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Looks like not much effort to pull that engine and trans together Bruce. I’ve only had one Dodge and never did any major work on it. Keep up informed about what you learn about that bell housing bolt. I looked it up… I don’t know if this helps.
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Thanks Tom, in this case, the cab is so very bad that I am going to pull it.
So yesterday I went and tuned up the auger truck, and brought it down to the work area…
This led me down the garden path of other possibilities. (Like a Craigslist search for a new cab)
I think I will go in a different direction right now. If I have to involve the crane on the auger truck, then I have better options. This morning I am leaning towards pulling the engine out of the dinosaur (the Hough loader’s 371).
So many choices 
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Here is the last remaining, operable, 6.2litre diesel I have. I put it running last night. In order to get it out, I think I have to cut open this bus.
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Here is a 371 Detroit Diesel two stroke. 3 cylinders at 71 cubic inch displacement each. It is presently configured for an Allis Chalmers HD7 crawler. I have tear it apart and check it out. If it’s ok, I have reconfigure it for the International Harvester Hough H70 wheel loader.
This includes changing the bellhousing, and moving the blower to the opposite side, and a host of other details.
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I spent almost the last year searching for a 3+3 or suburban with a 6.2 or 6.5 diesel, they are so rare in my area. Found ONE suburban I went and looked at and it was so far gone I don’t know how it even drove, they guy lived less then 2 blocks from the salt water I didn’t think it was even possible for rust to be that bad there was a entire section of the frame that no longer existed and he STILL wanted 6500$ for it
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