Yes yes yes, here I think I have succeeded for once. 
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Great job Jan, i like it 
And im extremely jealous about your Iller, once i was very close to buy one, it missed engine and was the right price, this was back then you checked adâs in papers, i believe it was Fyndbörsen, anyway i couldnt arrange a transport, it was located in Orsa, and i had no drivers license back then.
Enough of that, again good job, a machine that gets its own fuel 
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Oh no! Time for some precision tools (hammer and anvil). Iller motor or the spare?
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Iller motor, think the 85mm restriction was too much, or could it be something else?
3 out of 4 intakes were crooked.
I have now tested with 65mm, however, I got a brown film in the carburettor, donât know if it is tar.
Donât understand why it runs so well, could it be leaking through somewhere so the unit becomes too big?
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Pushrods. Duh. It took me a few minutes to realize what I was looking at. Losing your mind is not as much fun as it sounds. Still gotta say Jan. I love this machine.
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Could it be that gas is leaking between the cone and the bottom of the fire pipe, the cone is loose on the edge of the fire pipe.
Would it be a gas that gives the engine better power?
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Jan, you got me smiling when I hear youâre mixing languages as soon as itâs about something gasifier related I do the same.
Unfortunately I think you will have to watch out for tar sympthomes for a while. Any tary surfases inside the tubing will start let go of fumes every time they are warmed up. It will take quite a few hours of runtime and several cleanouts to get rid of. When I made tar on my maiden voyage with the Volvo, I cleaned the cooling pipes with a sewer brush several times. Took me maybe a month of everyday driving until I was able to just flush the soot out. What Iâm trying to say is, more tar sympthomes doesnât mean you made tar again.
Your cone pics showed up:
With ash stuffed around the cone I doubt very much itâs a leak problem. As the ash insulation builds up even more around the 65mm restriction and some patience, your Iller will become the most economical piece of forestry machinery ever. It sure runs sweet 
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Ok, Niklas called and gave me some tips, he has had his engine stuck twice.
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Hi Jan, you could stuff some clay around the cone, to give the ash a good start.
Also: engines run very well on tarry gas, problems starts when they cool ofâŠ
And what JO said, earlier made tar is going to show for a while, just run it long time enough, and maybe run it on gasoline 15 mins before shut-off, until you are safe.
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Hello JanA.,
The universal donât make tar raw woosgasifer advice is to gas-pull always keep the system loaded up.
Pull the gas volume needed to keep the hearth guts, regardless of design, blown Hot, HOT.
No idling.
Few, only short ,partial engine loadings.
The roads driving vehicle guys do this as a necessity unless they are slow city driving.
Non-on-roads applications it is far too easy to underpull-up heats, underloading a raw wood gasiferâs hearth system. Operating it too cold.
I put up a best lube-to-use 2-stroke chainsaw video by a Canadian timber guy. He said it did not matter the oil just as long as you kept your 2-stroke engines running hot, and hard worked. The carbons would burn off.
You cut wood. You see this on your saws.
Same principals. Want smokeless wood stoving, it is kept HOT woodstoveing.
Glad your V-4 engine is an old-style thick stem valves. Push rods then being the safety link.
Here we have cans of intake carbons cleaners with 24 inch / 60 cm flex wands. You could snake down tru the intake for valves stems cleaning.
Regards
Steve unruh
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Good ole Seafoam Spray, or as some may call it, Carb Rebuild in a Can.
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Do you think I should go down more to tex 50 mm throttle, I almost always drive below 2500rpm.
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Now I need some advice again, I have driven Illern 2 days in the forest, after the first day I drove a last load with petrol, the second day I had a bubble can of alcohol.
This morning I pulled the engine around by hand, and tried to start, 3 push rods and the steering off on one side.
I have gone down from 85 to 65mm in throttling.
Should I go down more or am I doing something else wrong?
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Hi Jan, it seems i should send you a padded envelope again, with some v4 pushrods?
To the gasifier problem, are you sure you have a âstabilizedâ or good charbed? It can take long time to get it good, with like i believe, that little engine donât work very hard? Iâve experienced some gasifiers need to run âhardâ near overpull, sometimemes awhile, to get a good charbed, and to get the pyrolyzis zone to expand upwards, otherwise half baked wood/charcoal reaches the nozzles and saturates the reduction zone with tar.
Maybe mix in charcoal with the wood in the first runs?
Fuel size? Bigger=pyrolyzis zone reaches higher, smaller=tighter charbed, dont know which way to go, but others have the good adviceâs.
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Jan, what Göran said. Maybe the gasifier is simply on the large side. After all, cracking tar is about heat and somehow tary gasses seem to pass through. However, the latest mishap could also be old sins - old tar in tubing and tanks steaming off again.
If you still decide to do something about the restriction, maybe raise it as well, to make a higher % of the firetube wall insulated with the ash cone.
Oh, and super dry fuel always helps of course.
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Maybe do some dry runs and exercise the gasifier with strong blowers. Going back and forth forward and reverse gas direction.
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I have had in grill coal from the unit on the Chevan, had in about 15-20 cm above the nozzles.
It runs at about 1500-2000 rpm almost all the time, if the tachometer is correct.
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Yes, I think so too because it runs so well, but what is too big?
I drove the day before without having problems with tar the next day, but drove the last load on petrol then.
I have been making firewood for the Iller from old boards to get as dry firewood as possible, but tipped in a sack from Chevan when I ran out, and tested a piece inside another sack of what I run the Chevan on, and it held 32% moisture, according to the meter,
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Yes, the problem is that I am standing in the middle of the forest.
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