JO's gasified 92 Volvo

Tell us why you changed, and did it help? :confused:

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Al, two reasons.

First of all - stiff charbed. Most of the time, with my driving habits and fuel size, the vacuum ratio usually settles around 5 or 6:1. I don’t pull air deep enough to burn the fines, which in turn prevents ash from purging. Raising the restriction will hopefully decrease the charbed volume enough to speed things up downwards.

Secondly, I still suffer from some hesitation sympthomes. With the restriction at the very bottom, most if its accumulated heat will probably radiate towards the grate and out into the gasifier housing. My thinking is, with the restriction embedded in ash slightly higher, it will be able to contribute more to where heat still is needed for reduction.

Edit: Oh, did it help? Well, too early to tell. I went for a ride, but with the recycled char full of fines and ash, I stopped several times to shake the grate with the poker and dark caught me. I don’t think I will be able to tell until I’ve run a few more cycles.

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Just wondered, The Ranger fire tube is 10’’ dia. 11’’ from center of nozzles to 4’’ restriction, 10 nozzles. The char gets tight some times. What did you reduce to?

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I like your fine tuning tools.

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Just to clarify in my own head here, your fire tube " capsule" as Wayne calls it is technically exposed in the open correct? The outer jacket with windows cut out are the preheated air inlets coming from the bottom up to the nozzles. The heated gas passes through the container opposite the firetube, up through the center and out the top. The heated container leaching heat out along the fins into the outer container preheating the air. Almost a reverse of the WK heat exchanger where gas is around the heat x filled with preheating air, yours is in the gas inside the heat x and preheating air around it? And the lower oblong container that connects the two is more or less one giant drop box area?

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Jo ,


to update the sketch of the gasifier,… :grinning:

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Well, I didn’t meassure but the spacer is 2.5".
12 - 2.5 = 9.5 so… :smile:

@Norman89 I think you’re correct. @Tone performed some magic on my drawing :+1:
@sbowman Yes, the sledge hammer is an essential tool for minor adjustments :smile:

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My first motorcycles were Triumph’s. Carried a roll of tools under the seat. About every three hundred miles the valve lash had to be reset and the carbs tuned. Started riding Harleys. Tool kit was a hammer. If it wouldn’t fix it get a bigger one.

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Thanks JO and Tone, We (I) like pictures. TomC

I found the outlet!

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That is what I am running on my WK Gasifier but with a 7.5" restriction opening. I have very little tight charbeds except when I run soft woods and to many fines, in the wood pieces. If I just stay with hard cherry wood everything is fine.
I am pretty much following your build design to try to keep the weight down for my Jeep build.
Bob

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When will we gets some update pictures on that build Bob? :grin:

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Bob, I’ve been thinking about stepping up a notch on the dia as well. 4" might just be pushing limits for a 12" firetube. Even only 5" would be a 56% csa increase.

What Marcus said :grin:

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Hmmm you guys got me thinking. I’m 12" firetube, 16" to choke plate and with the brake rotor in there 14" to the restriction of 6". If 4" is borderline not enough for the Volvo, and 7.5" runs good on a 5.2 in the Dakota that is smaller cubic inches and lower rpm then my 5.7…maybe I do need to open up the restriction some

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I would think you could open the restriction up some try 7" if it works then go 7 1/2" . Remember every gasifier is different and your driving is different. The velocity of the Air/gases will lower going by the restriction opening with a larger opening. This might help with all the Charcoal you are slipping by the grate that is causing you to have to dump your Charcoal and fines so often. The high velocity is just probably blowing everything off the grate. You can open your restriction up to a point, just so you do not make tar. I drive 90% of the time over 60 mph. not much in slow commuters traffic like you. Even with a 7 1/2" opening my truck will idle for long periods.
Bob

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My up date is still under 2 to 3’ of hard melt pack snow at the moment on the north side of the garage where the sun does not shine this time of year. It will be awhile, and I can hardly wait for the melt down of that snow.
Bob

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You know Bob, a funny video would be a shop vac hose off your flair pipe and using the flair to melt snow and “discovering” a gassifier under the snow :grin:

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Let me bother you a little more with my view on the shortcomings of the gasifier, namely the increase in resistance in the reduction zone and the problems at low load. In petrol carburettors this is solved with twin nozzles , the first small ones are for idle and the second large one is for full load , but I wonder why not use this in a gasifier ? I think that would solve a lot of problems, you may remember that I have already posted this sketch, but twice is better than never.

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Hi Tone, could you move this over to your own your thread or start a new on this great idea you have. I would love to discuss more on it but I do not want to highjack someone else’s thread. Thank you.
Bob

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Tone, nozzles at two levels is what I’m using at the Mazda truck. It works extreemly well anywhere between low and medium power, but that gasifier is just a bit too small to handle high end power well. At road speeds the vacuum ratio lowers and it’s running too hot. Kind of the opposite problem of what I’m experiencing with the Volvo.

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Jo; What is this canister in this picture used for??? TomC

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