Building tables I have say 2x4, 24"centers js minimum code for single story construction, at least up to a certain snow load. It is critical that the rafters line up with the studs, and here building code requires that the top plate be doubled. For insulation 3.5" is very little. This can be improved considerably by applying 2x2 or 2x4 material horizontally on the interior, 16" spacing, attach with deck screws. This will considerably strengthen the wall structure. If gypsum board was used for interior finish this gives the advantage of being able to install the sheets vertically, no butt joints to tape and fair out. The crossing of lumber nearly eliminates thermal bridging, a big overlooked energy loss in standard frame construction. Crossing lumber will tend ro straighten the wall, because some studs will warp as they dry, but are confined better this way. Because the interior crossing lumber isnât technically part of the building structure (though it will contribute significantly to building strength if properly attached), it can be of any grade.
My 2 cents.
As for best protection against snow loads, corrugated steel roofing tends to shed snow, so what snow loads? Just guard against avalanches on a warm day or slamming a door. Ice rakes are a necessity.
My 2 cents on your framing: you will probably want a better header over your doorway. Something like this.
The cripple stud should go under the rafter, which transfers the weight down onto the jack studs.
The outside sheathing would ideally be 5/8" exterior plywood, but I dont know if that is a common building material in your neck of the woods. I think 3/4 common boards were used in the past, and run at 45 degree angles to give the wall some shear strength.
I think 24" OC for the studs will be plenty, but like you, we only get a dusting of snow, and no hurricanes, tornados or other nonsense. We are about due for a 9.0 earthquake though, so bolting the mudsill to the foundation is not bad idea over here
Joep,
I have seen Amish in travel trailer factories building framing like that, but not sure I would apply those standards to other structures.
I like your Hookway retort. I keep thinking I would like to try that design. Do you have a smaller drum inside or are you planning to insulate the outside?
Maybe for an interior divider or a small animal shelter, but not for a support wall, not in snow country. 2x6, with thick insulation, and proper doublers, lintels, x-braces. You wonât regret the extra expense a few years in the future. Just my humble opinion.
The Hookway retort will work great sat over a small fire pit in the ground with a straight flu pipe through the drum and insulation wrapped around the outside and held on with a thin steel sheet to hold it in place and to protect it .
The hookway will be a straight pipe through. Very easy to make and a little more to load inside.
Isulation on the outside like Dave says. No barrel inside. Some construction outside to change the barrel quickly.
I donât know why, exactly, that this is one of my favorite videos ever. I found myself watching it over again today. Perhaps because Balan is such a sincere fellow.
It is part of a longer video called âSunset over Selungoâ.
I think it is hot everywhere at the moment. It only got to 75F as the low this morning or last night depending on how you look at it. We are currently at 81 headed to 90 with 75% humidity. This weather doesnât belong in NH. I would much rather have it -30F and toss a few more logs on the fire then this weather. I can only take off so much and then I am still hot and unable to do anything useful.
The sealing on the lid will melt and make a mess after the first burn , so take it off and replace with some stove rope around the same size , i had problems with getting the latching ring to seal the lid once , so i went round the lid every few inches and put a pilot hole around the lid and drum and then used self tapper screws to fasten the lid down , i also used a wrapped a length of the stove rope around where the chimney comes out of the drum and then covered it with dirt before placing a layer of insulation on the lid .
Dave
Ha ha, thanks. Like I said, stupid questions do exist. Wishful thinking, fingers itching to start. The simple fire has molten the same way. Canât open it. Better take my time. Thanks.
Joep , someone once said on here that there is no such thing as stupid questions and i have to agree , because at my time of life i sometimes have a brain freeze moment and it sometimes needs a kick start from an answer that would seems obvious to everyone else .
If your simple fire is getting that hot its melting your seal on the Gasifier then maybe its time to move up a few sizes so you always have a good supply of charcoal inside to keep it cool , i use a 200 litre drum the same type that you have in your photoâs and the rubber seal is still intact and working good even after 2 years and even running it right down till the engine stops .
Dave
