Can’t beat that price for parts that will get you down the road on wood, wish I could find some 50 cal ammo cans for that price, and some tubing. Political climate and all I have no interest in sacrificing a full ammo can for this build and my local supplier can’t get them. Kinda stopping me up on lower barrel completion
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I hear you there. To hard to come by…or at least for the right price.
Im going to use an electrical box like this… not this particular box but one similar and with the dementions i find favorable to my build. We scrap them at work sometimes when rebuilding machines and i belive they will work as well as an ammo can. They have a watertight seal in the cover and ill replace the screw down latch with a quick hasp like this one.
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Thanks Marcus .
Another great video !!
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Just checked Surplus Center website it says they have 329 50 Cal cans for $13. Don’t know what price point you had in mind though.
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not bad that’s what i usually pay locally!
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I made some simple hatch covers that still seal well and I still like. Might take a little extra time to fabricate but you probably won’t have to look far for material.
Rindert
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I would use something like that, but I already planned out for the ammo box. Mainly because it irks me cleaning out the Toyota through a 30 cal can and it seems to me to be a pain. After seeing the larger clean out port on Jacobs truck I knew I need to step up to the 50 size. Hopefully I can get my whole arm in there for clean outs, and if the softwood I run in the Toyota is any clue I’ll want to be able to get in there to give the grate a proper razzle once in a while and keep the system breathing well. Although I’m not sure that will be such a issue with the V10, that things moves a LOT of air, so it may keep the grate clean better then the Toyota does with it’s higher demand
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On my wood stove clean outs I have six inch channel iron that slides into an angle iron frame. I run a bead of furnace cement around the edges of the channel. When I need to clean out the ducts I tap around the opening and the brittle furnace cement falls off. The only reason for the channel iron is because it has the flanges to sit stable in the opening. Admittedly the channel is overkill and adds weight but you could fab something out of your 14 Ga. scrap.
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I have been really busy and a little behind on reading.
Marcus if you are talking about an ash cleanout door i would suggest going with the 50 cal ammo can. They are everywhere if you burn a seal up it takes all of 30 seconds to swap in a new lid. I have done something similar to what i understand you to be saying. I made the steel door with a silicone gasket. that silicone caught fire and ruined an engine for me. Granted you could probably protect it but i would stick with ammo cans.
Just my two cents worth.
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Yeah I don’t think I’ll ever use Silicone that low on the gasifier. I’ll just protect the neoprene like Bobmac has shown to keep the heat off of it.
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Yes Cody the ceramic wool wrapped in welding blanket is the way to go. The seams are on the back of the hatch plate. My are still working fine and protecting the silicone stove rope seal. Never leaks. My two ammo cans have the same protection in them with the pipe spacer attached. This keeps the hard vaccum -40 WC vaccum pressures draws from bending the ammo boxes and losing the seal and failing. The orginal boxes are still being used 2012 build. But with out the insulation the ammo box gaskets were cooked. Bought to new boxes and put the lids on the old boxes. Easy like Jakob said. The pipe spacer fits in tight so it can not flex in the middle of the box.
My new build will have a bigger ammo box for side clean out on the Jeep build.
Bob
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So far I have had great luck with a wood block and a scrap sheet metal as my protection for the ammo box lid
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With no ammo boxes available I have had great luck with rubber caps on a piece of 3" tubing. + a small piece of rockwool stuffed into the tube to prevent live char to get in contact with the rubber. Just saying.
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Good morning all .
Sofar I haven’t replaced an ammo box yet. The oldest vehicle is 11 years that I am using almost every day. I have changed the lid, straighten and painted the box because it over heated once while taking JO and Kristijan for a ride . It seems I forgot to latch the box properly after showing or demoing it.
A word of caution, when showing the gasifier and vehicle you may get out of your routine and forget to close or open a valve, turn off a switch or many other things .
I have started my gasifier thousands of times but at Argos a couple weeks back while giving someone a ride it wouldn’t run correctly after a quarter mile into a ride . I was busy answering questions while driving and forgot to close a valve .
Let someone ride with you with a video going and you may need a check list 
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I’m terrible if i break my routine. I think I’ll rewatch video where you had your son do a cold start up. From that I’m going to make a start up check list. Thanks for the idea
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Good morning Randy and welcome to the DOW.
Back then I may have been going to the extreme on some things .
Now when starting the truck if the accelerator is free I know all is well and no tare in the motor.
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Over abundance of caution can’t hurt with a new system and new driver, but you might clog up some blowers like I did 
Welcome to the drive on wood family!
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Good morning, thanks, when i get check list made I’ll post it and youall can please tweek it for me as i ve never driven on wood gas yet. Have 93 dakota 318 4wd, and almost all parts needed to start build. Would it be ok to list /show pics of parts to get feed back before i start? Thanks
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I did that at Argos with you Wayne , I forgot to open the intake I had a rage stuff it the opening. It would not run right and you were behind the wheel of your old 92 Dakota that you built. Lol. A mile down the road I remember and took it out. It ran fine after that. That was fun.
Bob
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Yup, That’s what we do. Welcome.
Rindert
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