no trying to hijack the thread but I have a tractor transmission that got filled with rain water for a couple years and the engine is rusted up as well. right now I have the transmission full of burnt motor oil I haven’t had time to touch the engine.
How would you guys suggest that I free it up?
I always put a ball peen hammer in center of the bolt ,OR a flat drift,and then hit the big end of the ball peen hammer with a little bigger hammer, if that dont work you either have too blast the nut part of the axel housing with a torch,then repeat hitting center head of the bolt, almost always works- other wize the bolt breaks and you must drill and retap the bolt if you can get bolt out with an easy out drift like tool. ITS much easier if you can add some heat and hammer center of the bolt head.AND yes soak it with wd 40 or some of the other mixes of thin penitrating oils
If you can warm up the bolts enough to melt wax maybe this will help you.
Rindert
That heating the bolt not help as well as heating the cast iron block- cast iron case will expand more in the right direction-I would think- though that worked adding heat.I have taken several hard bolts out useing propane too the outer casting threaded areas.
If you heat the cast iron, there is no risk of it cracking?
Jan, if you heat only the screw, the case will not crack, the fastest and most intense heating is heating with electric welding, this is how I solve broken screws,…
Metals normally only crack under rapid changes in temperature. For any bolt loosening using heat I have found it’s best to use oxy/acet with a small brazing tip. That way heat is applied to a concentrated area. I have even removed a bleeder in a caliper like this when nothing else would work. I always use heat as a last resort though. By just heating the bolt it will expand and then contract and that is often enough to break the bond the threads have formed. Last resort is heating the area the bolt i threaded into but sometimes you just have to reach into your pants and get a handful.
ALSO i have taken several rusted in studs-if stud is sticking up far enough ,you can weld a nut on the stud, and the heat from welding helps loosren the coroded theads,and use the welded on nut to remove the stud- so i gess heating the stud do help.I never had any cast iron around the nut thread area brake- as long as you let it cool slow untill not so hot.I might even try the heat the stud and candel wax trick myself- GOOD LUCK ALSO cast iron can be stick welded with cast iron rod-but the whole area must be heated first with a torch. WHAT TOM said is better yet with small tip when that keeps the heat away from other seals or gasket areas.
[quote=“Kevin / east ,mi, post:672, topic:6328, username:kmrland”]
ALSO i have taken several rusted in studs-if stud is sticking up far enough ,you can weld a nut on the stud, and the heat from welding helps loosren the coroded theads,and use the welded on nut to remove the stud-
What Kevin said
Thanks for all the tips I’ve been given, am a bit worried as it seems to be leaking a bit on one side.
Sorry for taking up space in your thread Marcus
i was just watching waynes newest video and had a few thoughts
1 Now that i have had both obd2 and obd1 in this truck, i can definitively say that obd1 has a more aggressive timing curve. now i have not ran this motor on wood yet, but there is a very real seat of the pants power difference on gasoline from the obd2 operating system. so in my opinion obd1 is superior for wood gas use under this condition; it has a manual transmission. I say this because with the more aggressive timing with obd1, the timing is kept up higher throughout the entire usable rpm range of the truck. i cannot verify this since there is no information about the factory timing curve for the obd1 trucks available, but just judging by feel its like in my toyota running stock timing on woodgas, vs running advanced timing it is that much of felt usable power.
thats not to say a obd1 automatic will not work great as well as wayne has shown many times over, so the timing is not only more aggressive but being able to leave your foot in one spot and letting the transmission do the shifting work for changes in load needed ie up hill down hill towing ect, by not moving your foot on and off the throttle constantly shifting, the timing curve never has a chance to drop down low, below what i would estimate is about 30* of timing. wish i had a way to hook a timing light up to the truck and view it in the cab to see how it reacts, maybe a tinker project for another day
2 a obd2 truck like Jakob has now i think with some simple pcm tuning and ramping up the timing curve throughout the rpm range would be the ticket. then with either a manual or auto trans the timing will not drop out all the way to 10* of timing when you flat punch the skinny pedal.
just some thoughts for anyone planning a v10 build down the road and choosing between a auto and manual trans. in my opinion
94-95 obd1 manual or auto for a great starting truck that needs no tuning to make it very usable on woodgas
96-03 obd2 manual or auto will need some pcm tuning to be on par power levels with woodgas as the early trucks, auto probably a slightly better choise
Did they make 2000 to 2003 V-10 ? Or are talking about OBD2 also in any V-8 and newer models of Dodge trucks.
yes the v10 finished out the second generation body style that ended in 2002, and a select few 2003 third generation body style trucks were available with the v10
Hi Marcus. We haven’t heard about the truck in a while. Now that you have had it for some time, is there something you would have done differently with the build or are you happy with all of it?
Its hard to say if i would change much that would apply to everyone here, but for the majority of conifer wood i run that produces excess charcoal requiring weekly cleanouts, i think i would have either done a expiramental center nozzle like @Tone is using or a larger cleanout port on the cross over, with a quick disconnect door like i made on the toyota.
Nearly every clean out i have char packed up into the heat exchanger and that tends to give a false reading in the cross over temp probe.
If i had unlimited time and resources instead of rushing to build it, i think i would have used the firewool throughout the whole lower barrel, followed by a thin sheet metal covering to insulate the barrel and the cross over. Then the cross over temp probe i think would read more consistently as it wouldnt be submerged in char by the end of the week
I would have offset the firetube more towards the outside of the truck, i wasnt particularly happy with how close it is to the cut out in the frame, i couldnt fit any sheetmetal insulation in that area and it has resulted in burning off the paint several times now
The bed, rails, tanks, valves, heatx, iv had no issues with and im happy with them
The barrel lids i used on the hay filter and and hopper are inadequate, to thin, crappy gaskets they will need replaced with something more suited to the use
Everything else and overall performance i have been happy with
Greetings Marcus, I miss your posts too, your presence has greatly enriched our society, well, however, family comes first,… moving to a new home, daily work, children, family, obligations,… no time for projects that take a lot of time.
I’m glad you’re still with us, but take time for yourself and yours.
God be with you, Tone.
What Tone said, Marcus - miss your posts.
Thanks Marcus for the thorough answer. And as Tone said, we all understand but we are also thankful that we still can lure you here sometimes 
Marcus i have been thinking about the charcoal problem that you have. I have it as well and have been trying to figure out what is causing it. Waynes truck does not make near the amount of charcoal that mine makes when running a lot i have to do cleanouts as often as you because the cross over will fill up. I wonder if it has anything to do with our design. the large slanted crossover tube instead of the smaller pipe going across. It is easier to clean out but i wonder if there is too little restriction on the gas and the carcoal so the gas pulles the charcoal up into the crossover. I used to get some but no where near the amount when i had the strait crossover. chris built one similar on bobs truck but it wasnt near the size and it wasnt slanted if i remember correctly. Just thinking of this now this might have something to do with why i tend to have problems with the char bed running loose. maybe the ease in which the charcoal can leave is the problem. Sorry for the long ramble just some thoughts.
i have been having the same thoughts, and trying to brain storm a way to somewhat restrict that ease of movement