Hey Marcus .
I suggest you use this picture sitting on your truck for your profile picture .
What do all the rest of you guys think ??
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Great job Mr Norman 
!!! I believe your face is hurt from smiling now? New-build-on-the-road-smile-with-every-mile?
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Wow Marcus, what all the others have said, that was a fantasic test drive WK style for sure. Putting the truck to work on the test drive.
The last little in flux of temp. at the cross of tube and the hopper temp being normal, could have been a small bridge of the last bit of wood on the gravel road to your place. It has happen to me before.
Your family is going to enjoy all the benifits of your hard work now. $50.00 a day for fuel. Times one year 350 days of driving is a pay back of $18,250. Yes I used 365 days because you like to hunt, fish, trap, and do lots of things with the family on your days off. Well buying gasoline will not be a reason why this might not happen.
The Dodge V-10 build is right there with the Wilbur/Smith beauiful gasifier build. The difference is yours is going to be seen driving and used alot. I might say for all of us at DOW. We are all very happy for you and what you have done.
Bob
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@Norman89 So with the obd2, can u adjust timing maually as well?
Or does the computer have to do it all?
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The computer has the timing control, no way to manually adjust it. A few smarter brains then mine are working on some fool it techniques ill be trying
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Look forward to hearing what works and what doesnât. The more obd2 vehicles successfully converted the better the future of driving on wood will be! These older veicles are harder and harder to find were the salt eats them away.
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You would think the anti-knock sensor would bring it back on the V-10 to around 30 advanced if climbing a hill with exceleration on the throttle. There must be a easy way to fool the OBD2 system by a push of a button.
Bob
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On other obd2 systens like the early toyotas i know they will bring timing to maximum and find spark knock and then back off, but that was done for peak power, where as the v10 1996 is reaching for emissions standards of the times. Part of the wasted spark ignition was based on cleaning up emissions
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Seems itâs only a few Makes that had the fast and loose knock sensor. I know GM was one and you said Toyota does the same.
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Oh so the 1996 V-10 OBD2 has waste spark ignition, I wonder if the V-10 1995 OBD1 do not have waste separk ignition?
Bob
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To my knowlwedge all the v10 had it,94-2001
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Just watched you videos on my 6 foot TV. Congratulations. You the man. Iâm going to have to send you some nitrile work gloves for Christmas and if you donât quit rubbing soot off onto your clothes your wife is going to kill you. Maybe Iâll through in some tyvek coveralls. Here is a song for you to play in the background when you are back blowing the gasifier.
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In freezing temps, how do you think some of those rv valves would hold up/ seal on the drain valves⊠being MN im going to have to drain after every run so i dont freeze solid. They would make draining a lot faster, but im not sure if they would hold up to the cold or freeze shut not alowing me to open them.
Im close⊠but not there yet, still working on the flat bed frame.
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Thanks Marus for the great infomation. I do the same thing after a long drive. Drain off the water on everything on the truck and sometimes the tar too when the truck is hot. I am not a every day driver to work like you. My 130 miles a day driving to work stopped in 2008. Talk about tax free monies back in the pocket not buying gasoline every day. The prices of gas was $1.35 a gallon. Wow, look at the monies you are saving each day compared to 2008. DOW.
Bob
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Chris, it is best to use the 2" or 3" rubber caps when possible. If you do freeze up you can still pull them off and poke through the ice. This black sooty and tar water is harder to freeze up but not impossible.
I have a 1 1/2" pvc screw in cap and I put grease on it in the winter time on my hay filter drain. On the other drains. 2" with the rubber caps.
Bob
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There are some guys that used them in the past for condensate drains, though I donât recall who they were. Soot getting into the sealing lips was a problem and they didnât always close completely as the blade coming down would bind up on the soot particles. If they were manually operated they do work, but a little bit of a hassle to make sure they close up well each time, seemed a touch more work then I wanted to deal with compared to just a furnco cap that is pretty well stupid proof. The 3/4" ball valve I use on the hopper tank is the same as on the Toyota and it has never given me a problem until it gets filled with tar which has only happened once now so I think they work pretty good, though there is no soot in that area to bind up the ball inside
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Hi Chris. I use metal ball valves for all my drains. Never had them freeze crack. If they are frozen and plugged you can heat them with the torch. Itâs a good idea to have the hopper condensation tank pretty close to the gasifier though.
The rear tank condensation is trickier. One way to be able to melt it fast is to have woodgas enter the tank prior to the rails. Downside is the hayfilter will catch condensation separately. It requires quite a long ride to melt that ice if draining was forgotten about at last shutdown.
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Vacuum ratios were still looking good but with near 30 bags of wood through the truck and about 300 miles on wood it was time to inspect the char
It was full right to the heat exchanger which I expected since I was starting to get eradic performance from the cross over temp gauge, it was submerged in char.
It appears I had a small air leak at the base of the drop box housing, im not a fan of this dynaflex red rtv im using with absence of air it remains soft and flexable, which means extreme heat can push it out and around. It was pushing out at the base in goooy half liquid form so I gave it a smear coat on top that will harden up
This clean out acess door was the absolute best feature of this build so far, I can reach my whole arm inside to give it a good cleaning that it needed the char was starting to pack tightly and it was a little work to get it loose and flowing back into the bottom barrel. The sloped floor did its job beautifully and funneled it all back where I could reach my whole arm in the ammo box and get it all out. Only draw back the paper gasket I made hardened and fell apart like brittle glass
So it got the shmoo treatment as well
Since I saw the ammo box was getting a little heat around the gasket I made up another thermal barrier to block the heat away, another block of wood but since gravity is not on my side with this ammo box I need a way to remove it if it becomes stuck by packed char, so I broke out the skill saw and gave it the polish planer treatment and made a handle so I could grab and remove it for cleanouts. This also acts as a vacuum protection so the ammo box wont flex in with a hard throttle pull
And ended up with about 15 gallons of char, filled the box I was cleaning into completely
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