I gess i with i still had that type and emount of energy// it dident really bother me either while i was younger, Its taking me months on my wood gas truck , and its the only job i am working on ,though i need too get side work done too, money goes no whare now days.Soon as i get my new gas tank fabed and mounted and wired, i can pull the dakota out, then i got too at leiste get all the bare metal primed good so i dont have too resand all the frame works. Good luck with your obd-1 conversion.Sounds like best way too go.
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I couldnât swap an engine if my life depended on it anymore. When I got old my head wiring must have shorted out a few circuits and the idea of laying under a vehicle puts me in a panic and I feel Iâm being crushed. But standing up, you could close me up in a couple of barrels and it wouldnât phase me. Just before my shop burned I had just about squirreled away enough money to buy a Bend Pak lift. That would have been a dream. I did dig out a pit to drive over but we got a 5 inch rain one night and that washed away the sides too wide to use. A couple of years ago the power company came and relocated a bunch of power poles and left the old ones on my neighbors property. He used what he wanted and gave me the rest. I have been going to use some to build a drive on frame over the washed out pit area but it has been a way down on the to do list.
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Wayneâs V-10 truck is a 1995 OBD1 and he has not had any problems to my knowelge of this engine oil slugging up.
So the pre 1996 are okay and did Dodge changed the 1996 engine that is causing this?
I do know Wayne does not use the new type high mileage oils he has said so. The Walmart brand regular oils?
I do know when I was using a high mileage oil in my wood burner 1992 Dakota 5.2 L truck it jelled up and caused low engine pressure a idle. Changed it out on the way back from Argos, in cheyenne Wyoming and put regular oil back in and the problem went away. The oil only had 4000 miles on it, when it jelled up.
I now change my oils every 3000 miles now using the recomended oil weight for the engines.
Bob
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Iâm definitely not going to use synthetic oil in any of my vehicles. Might try to buy some drums of conventional just to have around.
Edit: there is however a difference between High Mileage and just Synthetic. High Mileage has a lot more additives.
Might be a good idea to do a run of some BG engine flush with the rinsing oil to clean the OBD1 engine. Very expensive but it would really help getting any sludge out if that engine has any.
BG Dynamic Platinum Engine Restoration Service kit https://a.co/d/jeWTwOt
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Hello Mr. Bob.
When I bought the 95 V-10 ( about 12 years back ) I was told the motor was a 96 but I have no way of knowing if that is true . It has been a good work truck that I am using just about every day . 
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Okay Wayne, but you are using the trucks OBD1 system that came with it. And you use just regular oil correct?
Bob
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Yes Mr. Bob . You are correct .
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apparently it was not a year thing of having sludge, but it may have something to do with these trucks do not have a true pcv valve, they have dual crank case breathers one in each valve cover that just goes into the upper intake plenum. the 94/95 trucks seem to not do it as bad and some people credit that to those where the only years that had a egr valve, the later trucks did not have one. my 94 is much cleaner inside then the 96, and granted it does have 70,000 less miles on it it could just soley be from the previous owners having been more on top of regular oil changes
Wayne if your truck is a 96 spec it would have a obd2 plug under the dash between your knees, the other difference is they run a different cam position sensor which i will take pictures of later when i got this engine cleaned from all the grease and grime of 250,000 miles of work it has had. it would also have a tag on the smog pump bracket showing what year it is emissions certified to, and also the egr valve is a dead giveaway of a earlier engine as well. ill go through all this in a video so guys can id the engine to what years it would be.
the engines do interchange, just have to swap cam sensor, exhaust manifolds and egr valve i think. means truly any year v10 can be run in either a obd1 or obd2 truck.
some of this i have found online information since there was a time dodge produced the srt10 pickup, a factory viper engine half ton. the viper and magnum engines do share some commonalities, but for the rednecks seeking power with no dollars it is common to find a guy that bought a v10 truck with the intent to swap it to a 6bt diesel either of the 12 or 24 valve flavors, then swoop in and pick up the magnum v10 for a deal cause no diesel guy wants " that boat anchor gas hog" laying in the back of their shop. the purchaser would then take it home and shoe horn it into either a half ton short bed pickup or a newer body style Dakota to create a âpoor manâ srt10 for a very cheap price.
the irony is a v10 long block runs about 4400$, and i have seen several guys buy used running low milage v10 magnums with complete harness and computer ready to swap for less then 200$ from a guy that cummins swapped his truck
Interesting i just dug back through the wilbur smith build and it FOR SURE was a obd2 truck
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Do you think you could put on a 350sbc or 454 style PCV on one of the valve covers? Might need a different grommet.
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I wouldnât cry about any engine that got a quarter of a million miles. Iâve have only owned one that passed 200,000 and thatâs the 5.3 LS in my current truck closing in on 299,000. You going to replace those lifters with more hydraulics?
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Neat thing they are rebuild able. They break down and can be cleaned and spring pressure checked and reassembled. The motor i just pulled was at 315,000 miles and the green truck was at 255,000 but something is making my rethink that as being a truthâŚthere is a reason the 94 engine is still clean inside
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Junk yard stock numbers. Me thinks this is a low milage engine
Burried under grime from intake manifold gaskets leaking
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Trying to put two and two together, does your old V8 you had in the Toyota have EGR?
I want to say my '76 has EGR as well as the PCV, because it doesnât have the amenities for a smog pump so they had to do something for emissions.
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Nope no egr, egr ports in the intake are blocked off as well on that one. That engine if from a 66 or 67 nova full pre emmisions just like i like them haha
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One other posibility, You may have run it on a full cooling rail juice tank not knowing, and then got excess moisture past the hay filter, your cooling rail should be about ambient temps just before it hits the wood juice tanks.ON one hot day maybe.Not saying that happen, but that might just build up some moisture in the oil,THATS SOMETHING I MIGHT FORGET ON A BUISEY DAY. or you may have had a block or head leak crack on the casting.or gaskets, Have you warmed up the motor and pump about 15 or 20 PSI in radiator cap.Might find a casting leak that way.
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Outside the box thinking kevin. With the wore out rings that were in the toyota that is a possibility if it sucked water then it could get past the rings and get in the oil. But i dont think that was the case, i have a lot of experience with milkshake engines i can spot that one very easily i have seen it hundreds of times in many different engines and many different failures. But a very good guess non the less
Now the horrible part, waiting. Big shipment of parts from rock auto on the way for the 94 motor before it goes in
Intake manifold gaskets
Injector orings
Thermostat and gasket
Front and rear main seals
Upper and lower rad hoses
Water pump
Mouter mounts
Case of oil filters
Just going to hit all the basic wear items while its out and very easy to get to plus a few things it needed. Ill tear it apart and clean out the lifters before it goes in just as insurance. Parts should be here in 5-7 days.
For anyone that doesnt know rock auto can be a big money saver on a lot of parts. Oil filters are about 2 bucks each where locally they are 10 bucks. Water pump locally was 60-70$, got it for 32$. Injector orings 4$, gasket set was 13$, 24$ locally. After pricing everything locally i was able to cut the cost nearly in half for parts
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Hold onto your hats . . . I think you guys woodgas vehicle driving are going to have to go back to the pre-forced-Positive Crankcase Ventilation oil changes of 1500-2500 miles.
Because once you remove the crankcase filtered fresh air from your intake to get rid of the woodgas sucking air-leak you are no longer true PCV vapors cleaning the oil.
So yeah. Short interval oil changes using less expensive oil. Still: must be good anti-wear oil though.
Almost none of the small 4-stroke engine or the earlier Japanese and European auto engines actually had POSTIVE crankcase ventilation. The small engines do kind of before the throttle plate suck-in any crankcase out positive pressure pulses. But have no behind the throttle plate vacuum sucking and fresh air sweeping flow of the crankcases.
The earlier Japanese and European just Teed-out the tiny intake sucked PCV valve into a single filter air-in/crankcase-out line. NOT positively sweeping out the crankcase with fresh filtered air replenishment.
V engines sucking out one valve/cam cover . . .and fresh filter air into the other opposite valve cover. Notice one side aways browns up more severely.
Marcus all of the Magnum engine series would sludge some if regular oil changes were not done.
Made pocket broke fueling V-10 owners often saved by not oil changing when needed.
When needed on any gasoline fueled 4 stroke engine. Just as soon as you cannot see thru the oil on the dipstick in my 50 years of experiences. On vehicle that has been as soon as 1500 mile on new not completely seated-in, broken in engines. Then up to 2000-2500 miles. Very infrequntly in mid-life of the engine . . . m-a-y-b-e 5000 miles. But as the engine ages and has more rings blow-by contaminating the engine oil the blacked milage for changing comrs back down.
It you do not want to be sludge starving chains, tensioners, guides, camshafts, and valve train.
Donât matter what the oil analysis says as far as metalics in the oil, reserve remaining ph buffering and remaining additives. Black oil internal engine deposits coats nad build up layers on layers!!
First it was grunges up hydraulic valve lash adjusters.
Now it is variable camshaft phaser oil feeds; and cylinder deactivation systems clogging then oil starving.
Yeah. Call me the oil change nazi like most all of my family does.
OUR/MINE engines last 3x-4x the service life of theirs.
Steve unruh
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I have gone to 2000 mile oil changes and 1000 mile filters on the wood burners the last few months. Still searching for a cheap good in bulk oil supply. 5 gallons at a time is about 120$ from napa cureently for conventional
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Steve, do you think a catch can system connected to the PCV will allow us to go to a 3000 mile schedule?
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My grandfather only drove Moparâs. They were prone. To sludging, so at oil change he would put a quart of diesel fuel in with the old oil, idle till temperature. Was up ,let it set ,and drain. I replaced valve cover. gaskets at 200k miles, not a bit of sludge.
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