A friend of mine would put a guart of transmission fluid in his engine before changing his oil. Same thing no sludge build up at all on his engines it was so clean.BUT Don’t do this on a engine that has a build up of sludge in it already. It will plug every oil port hole up and destroy the engine. Samething goes for a engine that burns nondetergent oils, putting detergent oils will break everything losse plug oil ports up.
Bob
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Now i am starting too think i will pull the rockers on all my dakota 318 and 360- before they get installed, rinse it out good cold and drain oil, then warm up some cheap oil , add fuel oil and idle 15 minuts and drain oil overnight.Good pointers on the 318 dodges, i remember my dads 318 or 360 maxi van back in midle 70,S a little sludge on that one too.If i could find good deal on a chevy s10 with solid body, motor shot, i would like to put a 454 chevy motor on a solid s10 4 wheel drive,
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Keep in mind that when you add that much weight to the front of a small truck you have to beef up the suspension as well. In my opinion, the automotive engineers are paid to design components with the least possible amount of material, therefore strength, and with maximum difficulty for the average joe to replace them.
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I agree with you Tom. About 20 years ago I stuffed a tuned port 350 from an 89 IROC Camaro into a 4wd S10 Blazer. Had to make a custom oil pan and extensive tunnel work. I was able to level it by cranking up the torsion springs, but you would have to do a LOT more work for it to handle the weight of a big block. Wish I still had that motor, it would have been perfect for wood gas and I can’t imagine wanting more power than that in an S10.
Garry C
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I agree Tom And Garry-I would at leiste weld a bar or two along the sides of the frame at the most likely stress points,I just remember my auto shop teacher MR Brown- at waterford Kettering high school. 1977.He pulled a 4 cyl. chevy-vega motor and droped in a 350 chevy motor and trans.And i am sure i would have too put bigger springs in,.But on the other hand it would be much easier and more heavy duty,to take a light 1/2 ton short box,4 wheel drive,if they made a short box 4 wheel drive.I would probley be better off with 350 chevy motor,in an s10. I got two of them not two far from the engine stand i could rering and bearings,check clearence,ECT.
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A 350 swap would definitely be easier than a big block.
I like to think an S10 is a good candidate to give a spare 305 some use.
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I had a few 305 chevy motors, that got worse MPG than a good running 350, maybe it was the 305 motors were high miles engines.i would go 350 if running wood gas 4 wheel drive,too have the extra power. not much heavier than the 4.3 motors they used in them.My 4.3 s10 ran good got about 16 MPG and had 180.000 miles on it.Though the 350 would add some better towing speed on wood gas.HYPETHETICLY, I have neither an s10 or a short box chevy 4 wheel drive at the moment.OR anytime soon.
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Don’t be surprised if by this time next year some one may be willing to trade you one for a bag of groceries. Get that garden going Kevin.
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Thanks Tom good point/ what i really need is a few garden tools and a much bigger garden than a 10 by 10 foot tomato garden with a shovel. I am looking for a broke down oversize lawn mower type tractor , with a pto for a tiller, too fix up for a bigger garden tool. OR what is the leiste tools to get started with. i have a sandy soils,all sand around my area.WERE GETTING OFF COARSE HERE AT NORMANS GASIFIER THREAD.
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i told you guys before im totally ok with tangents im enjoying the conversation!
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For some reasons i dont like 305 chevy motors, i think they decompresioned them too much, I would settle for a 327 10 and half too 1 OR 11 too 1-b compresion,with a decent cam,THOUGH.
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That’s what I’m getting at, the 305 isn’t well loved but in a light weight S10 it’ll really scoot down the road on woodgas. Might have the same power as a 4.3 on gasoline. You could always do a little hotrodding with the engine before putting it in, maybe a stroker kit I’m sure someone makes one for a 305. The 305 was a real workhorse just like the 4.3, people like to dog on them now.
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Not enough gain to stroke a 305, but bored 10 over a rv cam lifters with a better ratio say 1.7 and good pistons they will run at 10/1 all day and make a solid 250-275 horse. But for the price of all that a 5.3 ls would be cheaper and make better power and fully tunable
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I got a couple good 350 long blocks that ran fine ,that probley have good hp stock, burn a little more wood runing around empty, probley not much difference on wood,/ What do you think of the 1999 360 cube dodge RT dakota, did they get much worse on petro than the 318 dakotas.I could google it but woundered if anybody had any of the RT’s.Because i have a 360 under bench that was said ran good,i could through RV cam in that,chech rods and put new rings and bearings in that one easy enough.P.S - I googled MPG the 360 say gets 1 mpg difference than the 318 daskota, for 1998 range years.
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Nice job on the two peice hopper, I took my barrel hopper off yesterday,cause could not get in around it too put a decent size monerator hopper add on, and i had a over size water heater 23" acrost. I can weld up all the monerator stuff,but it would be easyer with 2 piece hopper, luckley its thicker than barrels, i can weld it back on my top burn tube hopper plate easier.A 2 piece hopper would be much easyer getting the funnel built by a long shot.If my hopper wasent so close too the cab, i would weld a flange on the hopper half’s on this one.P.S i just could not see working on all the cooling rails ,gutters,and gutter skins, so i go two peice hopper like the wayne keith design ring and barrel connection, much easyer too take apart for repairs and or inspection. I see now how and why the rim is used on the Wayne Keith design, would have made easier too work on, I somehow missed that feature out of the book and all the vidio.
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Thanks for the information Marcus , pure gold for V-10 owners .
Just went out and checked my two V-10 trucks and both seem to be 95 year models and OBD 1 
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Good information MarcusN.
Before you will swap block assemblies to OBD1 versus OBDII controller you should pull the cam and crank sensors and flashlight look inside and count the trigger edges while someone else slowly rotates over the engine.
OBDI was only required to identify in general that cylinders were misfiring. PO300. So it only actually had to ID cylinder #1 for ignition and fuel injection timing sequencing.
True fully initialized OBDII was required then to ID and declare which actual cylinders were misfiring with misfire counts. PO301, PO302, and on.
Many engines for Chrysler, Jeep, Dodge then had different flex plates and slotted machined tone rings for this finer definition.
Yours could still be the same. Chrysler/Dodge did apply-for, use the trade-off EPA exception trading-off clause a lot.
You know trade off 200-300,000 two years jumped early for OBDII compact cars for allowance of a few 10,000 trucks units not quite 100% OBDII compliant.
S.U.
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What would you do if you were color blind?
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