one thing about multi fuel injectors on a gas engine is they are not inside of the air intake I mean they are on the side not sticking in the middle so if there is tiny amounts of tar or dirt it will go right by them. so if you could control the gas air mixture right you could cut of the gas in the injectors and switch back and forth. it just needs a code to tell it what to do. There is a unit they were working on in the carb section of the forum. we have the ideas just need to put everything together. if we could you guys could drive on wood the your meets. and if you ran out of wood just tell the motor to change back to gas never even stop and no one would even know except once in a while you may get a puff out of the in feed gate. hha ha ha. Just thinking out side the box…
Ive pretty much already achieved electronic fuel mixing and have now integrated engine starting into the start up process. For gas full mixing, you could simply control the fuel pump pressure when switching between fuels. This way you can simply meter up or down the fuel pressure while letting the electronic controller automatically adjust as the gasoline input becomes richer or leaner during transition. Easy enough to do, you can use PWM from the Ardiuno and over ride the ECM controls.
AAA i see i am not the only one thinking out side the box. I have been thinking that way for a while but was thinking of getting a program to control the engine computer but as you say drop fuel pressure and let the motor do what is does any way HHHMMM.
would iit also adjust the timing as well . Do you inject the wood gas into the intake tube or run it through the carberator
Im not sure but I think on an EFI system some timing advance will already be automatic as the wood gasifier system is already loading the engine with vacuum.
On the small engines I mix the air / fuel remotely from the engine and feed directly into the carburetor. The vibration of the motor verses the added mass of the mixer installed directly to the carburetor will eventually break the bolts. I keep the gasoline system intact for trouble shooting or emergency cleaning if tar is suspected.
I did a tutorial on this a few years ago. You can see this here. Wide Band Electronic Mixer Control Tutorial
Scroll to the end for the latest code revision.
with a car computer system the timing is set by the computer then when the fuel changes the engine knocks the knocks tell the computer to retard timing or advance timing by what information it gets but i dont know how much retarding the computer can give i know timing is set with the sensers on the crank. it will do what it can to stop knock and give best fuel burn as kevin said yesterday he retarded his timing 45 degrees . The computer might have a hard time figuring that out. I like the idea of keeping the carb. on the motor. to bad you coulnt get a fuel injector to put out the right fuel ratio then it would be out of the way and let the air gas or air fuel go the the motor with out bothering each other as the injector would be in the wall with just the tip in the air stream.if the system is set up to adjust the gas going in the injector should be as easy to make but for a car engine the fuel flow would be adjusted automaticly it should shut of when the fuel mix was right. the wood gas would be controled by a ball valve or a butterfly valve. and the tube be put in the intake manifold any where after the air flow senser the air flow senser would tell the gas flow valve how much to open for the given amount of air. if you didnt have the right amount of bio gas coming in the injectors should keep some fuel coming to make the difference sorry just the rambling of my thought patterns also as you said the gas could turn on a couple of minutes before shut down to prevent tar ont the valves.
No thats not how it works. The MAP sensor controls the full timing curve of the engine. The Knock will also change timing but is more a back up to the MAP and will throw a code. The MAP sensor is the computer equivalent of your vacuum advance system on modern HEI distributors.
ya i figured that after i sent the message i dont know what i was thinking if this is the case then it gets more complicated need to think some more.
Yup, They use "knock’ sensor data to advance or retard the ignition timing. This allows engines to take advantage of higher octane fuel when they get it. A knock sensor is just a specialized accelerometer that looks at the shape of the vibration that corresponds to combustion events. Sharp peak ==> retard timing. Personally I don’t have a problem with a electronics, computers and all that, but a lot of people do, and fewer and fewer of us really understand our cars anymore. I think it’s a shame. But I DO have a problem with stepper actuated throttles. I want instantaneous control of that little metal disc. Same reason I don’t like power steering or power brakes. Call me a stick ‘in the mud’, whatever.
i have been using the fly by wire system for a while and the response is faster than manually all so the knock senser does retard timing but the map senser all so does. I was thinking that the knock senser detects the different octanes in the fuel so the oxygen senser would be able to tell the different fuels. but maybe not i will have to check further to be sure or not. if it did it would sure make things easier to figure out. I had a hard time with power steering i use to think any one with power steering was not a man . But i now love it. power steering abs brakes. I have been saved a few times and I mean saved a women pulled out in front of me slammed on her brakes i would have run the car over at the front door post abs allowed me to drive around her. still abs is not much good on slippery ice. the wheels go thump thump thump as they lock and unlock.
The knock sensor is the back up to the MAP. The primary function of the MAP sensor is to map the timing curve. Basically mimicking the vacuum advance of the old systems. The knock sensor comes in later and works with this mapping. If the ECM detects knock via this sensor and it logs too many times it will fault out and move to open loop mode. The engine knock sensors primary function is to tell the ECM if the engine running properly or not.
When the engine is loaded the manifold pressure will change and the MAP sends out a voltage range to the ECM to determine how much to advance the timing. Knock sensor detection will never advance timing, thats really its sole purpose as Pre detination will destroy the engine. Its job is to detect pre detonation. If the ECM detects knock it will retard timing and also change the injector pulse. A bad knock sensor can shut down the entire fuel system along with ignition control module.
The MSD control kits for carburetor conversions on the LS based GM engines only use a MAP for timing. It does not even use a knock sensor and this controller has very fine tuning capability for timing curves. This is the systems I used on the LS based machines that went to Italy
So if you read my explanation above. The MAP sensor actually makes things much easier as there is no programming required to change timing.
To switch between wood gas timing and gasoline timing on an EFI engine all you need to do is install a second MAP sensor with a better matched output signal. The signal wires of the stock sensor and the second sensor would be wired into a 5 pin relay with a normally open pin and a normally closed pin. These pins are the input from the switch and the power in pin you would simply use as the leg feeding back to the ECM. So if one mode you simply have the relay Off and switch timing you simply switch the relay On.
yu got two messages back before i red the other but i understand thank you message was for wesseling he said he hated mot having manual control of throttle . but thanks for your explamation i am getting a better idea of how the electronic controls work now i have to admit i had a couple of wrong ideas about them i guess i am old school pre 2000
I was an automotive tech in a prior life. I left the industry in 2002 and moved on to automated machine building. It was not until later that really learned how the computer controls actually worked on and engine. As I learned the basic electronic systems in automation things then began to click. Then later learning to program things became even more clear. Now Ive had combine both the engine controls along with my controls.
i grew up in the mechanic business. built first car ok dune buggy at 11. when they switched to electronic controls i have to admit that is when i got sick. havent kept up with the innards of the controls . I now cositer the new motors as plugg and play need some updated in my understanding of the boards and programing i now use code readers to fix all my problems. can fix just about anything just takes a little longer. i now need scematics to figure out some proble,s as now most problems are wiring … we have a lot of salt and calcium on our roads like a hundreed lbs per KM 1/2 mile per run.
zirconium oxide ball $6.99 for 25 3. mm uxcell for sale on amazon
ZrO2 Zirconium oxide ball G5
I also found washers Zirconium ceramic that may be more durable material but would you use washers for fluidized bed ?
A long, slender, zirconium metal tube containing pellets of fissionable material, which provide fuel for nuclear reactors. Fuel rods are assembled into bundles called fuel assemblies, which are loaded individually into the reactor core.
The material for a fuel rod would melt inside a gasifier ? 1350 f 732.2 c
anything you use for fluid bed burners will wear out think of a ball mill the balls roll around and polishes the material . now think of those balls floating in the air banging around now bring those balls to 1600 degrees F. the heat and the oxygen will oxidize nearly any thing and the heat will soften the balls so they wear faster. ceramics will last longer but small gravel stones are way cheaper . as you will have to keep changing them as they wear out. put small gravel stones about the size of large sand in a tube . Put a screen door screen about 1 1/2 inches from the bottom on a frame that fits inside the tube tightly now put a hole in the side at the bottom hook a fan to the tube blow air under the screen with enough force to make the sand float like water boiling. blow air for a couple of days see how much you have left most of it will fly out of the tube as powder. it will wear away like the wind blowing sand in the desert. . Now you havent even added heat. that is the reason i left fluid bed . the big company has the same problems they just dont tell people. If they did no one would want to use them. i think the costof bed material is just a part of expense
He just posted another Drizzler video on Youtube about a week ago