Get to you guys later, for now l just wanted to say that it seems we found the bigest problem of runing diesels on woodgas. You forget about the diesel 
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If you want to modify that a bit, you can always buy one of those 5 gallon tanks with a fuel level gauge made for generators. They’re short, but long and wide in a rectangular shape. Tons on eBay for 55usd, AliExpress probably has them cheaper.
You’d need to add a barb for fuel return
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I have the same fuel gauge for all my stuff. It’s a stick. I’ll sell you one but the shipping will be prohibitive.
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Got a surprice delivery today. Tone droped by and left this litle marvel for me to test on the tractor. We tested it a bit and so far it feels great.
For something this small it delivers a lot of rich gas and it works wery cool. Signs of a good design!
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now is clear why tone says nothing about the use of the gasifier!!
is just some results how slags build up inside?
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Giorgio, I can say that I have had this style of gasifier tested by an independent institution for evaluating the quality of conversion of fuel from solid form to gas, if it passes the test, the green light will be given for the production of even larger units (Fiat 600 hungry for wood gas). 
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Cant wait and dont dare to ask anything, but very interesting and no doubt it will exactly behave as you expect it to.
Thanks guys
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Hi Kristijan
is there an advantage to forging a nozzle vs welding a nozzle? I am obviously speaking from the point of view of its resistance to heat.
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I dont think so… it was just easyer for me to make a point at the end and get some more thickness
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A while back, Tone brought me his new style gasifier for me, as an “independant institute” to test and report the findings. Yesterday l fited it on the tractor.
I feel its my obligation to be as honest as l can, and since l had the task of testing it out l tested it real well and, well… frankly tortured it.
I dont realy know where to start. Perhaps with a comparison?
As a wood gasifier, the startup is slower and the ususal hesitation related to wood gasifiers is obvious. With my char gasifiers everything seems much quicker. Startup, throtle responce… l also think l get a lot more run time per volume of hopper space with a charcoal gasifier.
This sayd, everything else is a pure supelative.
I can honestly say this is the most user friendly wood gasifier l ever used. No restriction, no nozzles and a cilindrical design makes bridgeing preety much impossible. No restriction means much less drag so the motor gets more food…
First l tested by driveing uphill and the power seems almost comparable to pure diesel. I did however for the first time notice some sound that could be detonations, or it was just some wery crisp exhaust sound. Hard to say. This only happened at 100% load and got away by leaning the gas mix some. If thats because of richer gas or just the fact that the engine gets more of it, thus raising the effective compression ratio, l dont yet know.
Now the abuse part. The hopper lid doesent seal well. I started seeing more and more puffs and smoke escaping and after some time l was runing partly FEMA style. Yet, the gasifier still produced good clean gas it apears the lower nozzle realy does a good job at cleaning up the tars. I decided to continue as is and see what happens when the engine cools overnight…
For now l am most pleased as the engine has a lot more power thain with my gasifier. Next test is using wet charcoal to see once for all if chargas realy is les potent.
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I did not see any smoke but it perhaps it is more of a vapour that doesn’t show on the video
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Johan, the lid smoke only shows when you turn the engine off or even throtle it down fast. At load usualy its not a problem unless the lid leak is so severe that so much air mixes with hopper gases and boom boom sneeze…
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Yes, I expected to see a little bit when you throttled down a lot in the video but there is perhaps some play in the wire connections so it only looked like a big change. Now that I watched the video again and judging from the engine revs it was not that big of a change.
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Hi KristijanL,
Congratulations to you both on the successful useability so far. Sound great.
Can you please show a picture of your used wood fuel?
Moisture content?
What species of hard wood?
Thank you
Steve Unruh
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Thank you Steve.
This is a torrefyed wood gasifier. I frankly wuldnt dare puting pure raw wood in, but rocket fuel wuld probably work great too.
Not as is that is, without any condensation zone etc…
Tone posted pictures of his process when he prepared the wood (along with the gasifier l also got a barrel of fuel to test) but l cant remember on wich topic right now… if l dont forget l will take pictures tomorow but basicly is mixed size chips from dust to near 4" long, torrefyed.
I do belive torrefyed wood has a lot of potential for small mobile units. Its more energy efficient to produce thain charcoal and produces a heat ballanced athmosphere in the hearth. Yes its some work to make but in the end, l rototilled about a quarter acre, burning about 20-30l of chips and a bit of diesel.
Yes, theoreticly anyone with a monorator hopper or a WK condensation pipes does make torrefyed wood in the gasifier on the fly but if we want to conserve space and weight, like on small vehicle like this, torrefyed wood shows great promise.
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thru post 561
Mike LaRosa used to like to tell the story of Wayne Keith way-back in the beginning driving up on wood to visit him. With his still no-side jets FEMA based gasifer.
Wayne said he had made it work with torrefied wood chunks he’d make up in 55 gallon barrels.
I agree. Pre-torrefying is a valid technique for small systems especially.
Regards
Steve unruh
S.U.
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Thanks Steve.
I still remember the mileage of that trip . 1987 same as the year model of the dakota 
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here is our “motoretta” with 360 ccm diesel engine…my thought was to modyfie with spark ignition or diesel fuel for ignite the chargas…so as kristijan wrote that he needs sometimes all the horsepower of the engine, therefore he has choosen diesel ignition…i have the same situation here with some very steep parts of the street or terrain…so chargas with diesel ignition will be the better choice
i am not clear about the regulation of the diesel pump, how it works…
on the handle - 3.foto- is a lever on the right side where i can stop the engine, idle, or give more rpm, but how the lever is regulated, so it stands…
the lever on the left side is elastic and always goes back to zero when i not push…
so when i will run the engine with chargas, i bring the lever on the right side in idle position for gas ignition and and regulate the power with a throttle in front of the engine intake…
when is needed more power for example on a steep piece of the street can i give more diesel for more power by the left elastic handle?
on the second foto is the box where the cables goes in…the elastic lever cable goes to the outer lever with the spring,
the cable of the right side of the handle goes in the box…
can someone of our diesel -woodgas experts can help me to explain how the regulation must work?
ciao giorgio
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Hello Giorgio. On your second picture, 2 cables can be seen. One is for throtle and one shuts off the fuel pump in order to kill the engine. Am l right?
When you give it “throtle”, you only act upon a fuel governor and tell it you want more rpm. It will then dose enaugh fuel to sustain that rpm. It will also shut off diesel injection all together once the rpm is reached. Not good for woodgas! Then you get no ignition.
You need to always have your throtle set to max rpm. That way the engine will always want max rpm and always inject fuel. But you now limit the fuel with the shutoff cable. I put a screw on to set it. If l manage l will make a video of how l do this.
You then add your woodgas via throtle before the engine.
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