What the hay bailer chunker

Thanks mike , other than a seal or two,one seal leaks, while tipping the box around, i got lucky on the sloppy gear deal, no slop end too end and no slop in ring and pinion. freash seals, oil,and start building the mounting frame, probbly build like Chris on a portable small frame, removeable hitch, so can be loaded in uhaul when i move, more south than michigan,PS, looked augh full hot summer far south this year though with all the rain they got. I boiled over checking the weather in southern states this year.

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Kevin
Mine has the 4 inch thick flywheel I can kill power to the motor and still make a couple three chunks off the momentum of the wheel.

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Hi Tom Wobig, good too know that gear box is chunking wood well.Thanks, I know its heavy enough now. Are you able too chunk dry 2 “by 4” boards or only green branch or split wood. Or what you recomend cutting with this gear box.Thanks again.

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2 by 4 are no problem at all . Green wood is noproblem my opening is 4 inch so limited to that. Dry hardwood makes it grunt and cutter ping I limit it to 3 inch or less

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Thanks again tom wobig, are you useing about the same cutter wheel type as chris seanz. or any good ideas for cutter wheel design mods.

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I like Chris’s Design for the cutter wheel. The flywheel on mine is only 4in wide. Since I am running on pto drive shaft the flywheel on mine is not fastened securely it just sits there. It does not have the same power as Tom’s since it is not steady but it has saved the gears in the gearbox many times.

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Kevin you mentioned a leaky seal on your gearbox. If the gearbox itself is damaged and a new seal will not stop the leak an old farmers trick is to simply pack the gearbox with greese. I just have to do that to my hay rake. My neighbor has a baler which is setup that way and my NH 565 baler has a greese fitting on the gearbox from before I bought it.

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Jake
I’m confused how does your flywheel do any work if it isn’t tied to the shaft?

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I agree with tom wobig, could you explain how it is conected, are you running off a belt conversion adaptor.

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Thanks dan alard if i caint seal it with a sleeve if needed i will consider jam packing the gear box with greese.Though seal adjustment and heavy oil would be my first choice. no problems with excess bushing wear. PS Maybe what you ment is packing the grease seal cover flange, i see the grease fitting there now, it must be part of the seal effect, and or it looks the pully spacer and pully all snug up too ware seal is driping a few drops oil, once i put pulley and the spacer back on no leaks will be there.Thanks for pointing this out. P.S. Probbly has something too do with the pulley shear pin in order too protect the gear box, since the pulley has a grease fitting on the shaft as well.

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I have a big 21 foot cutter ( bushhog type ) with 3 gear boxes . I keep grease in them and seems to be working OK . I think I have been using it for about 25 years and they were packed with grease when I bought it .

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Thanks Wayne Keith, then you mean the main gears and all packed full of grease.

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I said it before and I’ll say it again— “get to building and forget about what if” It sounds like you have the fly wheel and space off-- very likely the oil will not leak when you put it all back together. And with old equipment it is always cheaper to add a little oil from time to time than it is buy new parts to stop it “completely”. If you are looking for the “shear pin” it should be on the back side of the flywheel. It is a 1/4 inche bolt that goes through an arm attached to the shaft or maybe the spacer you spoke of, then screws into the flywheel. I sheared mine so many times I put a grade 8 bolt in it. Let’s go. You’ve got more than enough inflormation now. Just make the frame for the gear box very strong. The pressure of that blade trying to “push” it’s way through the wood puts a lot of torque on the box. That blade in NOTHING like a saw blade. TomC
PS I forgot to say. Clear those grease fittings ( make sure they work) and use them, for what ever reason they were installed

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Not completely full but about the same level as if it was running with gear dope .

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The fly wheel is sandwiched between two pieces of steel, It is tight enough to still give the flywheel effect but loose enough to continue spinning if the blade gets stalled. I am using the original PTO connection. whomever built this baler never connected the flywheel in the first place.

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Hello Jakob .

The flywheel on the balers should be designed so if the pto shaft stops suddenly the fly wheel will coast to a stop. With out this feature the baler would push the tractor ( tractors with a dead pto ) several feet. ( off a cliff or into the woods in some cases )

There should be a ratchet feature at the pto to the flywheel.

If the cutter stalls the flywheel should stall.

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Good evening Wayne K, i dont have any books on theses bailers or have i ever run one, so what you say about these balers i consider 200 percent accurite. As i see the fly wheel has a tinny bit of wobble or wiggle slop, and a greese fitting on the flywheel itself along with greese fitting on the bearing or seal mount bracket. then the only spline that holds the flywheel too the shaft is seperate from the wheel itself, then a small about 2" long bolt holds the sline too the actual flywheel, this appears too be a sheer pin, witch explains the little out of sqaure the pulley has on shaft. so it appears we are running these boxes hard as tom collin says he had too put a harder sheer pin in too keep from sheering the origanal sheer pin.I probbly wont have that problem with a 3 too 5 horse electric power sulpply.Thanks again.

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Yes that is called the clutch on the baler. Most all PTO equipment has one for the very reason you mentioned. I can’t think of a single thing I have which doesn’t have a one way clutch. I have been on a old Farmall M when the clutch didn’t work at a friend’s house it isn’t a fun feeling when you push in the clutch but the PTO still pushes the tractor forward until you manage to actually slip the transmission out of gear.

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Thanks for the design explainations of the sqaure baler gear box, i have good understanding of the sheer pins and pto sllip clutching and pully spinning after sheer pin brakes, probblly want have sheer pin ishu useing 3 too 5 hp electric,I will start building soon. Thanks too all the design explainers.AND IF THE SEALS GET TOO LEAKY I WONT BE AFRAID TOO JUST RUN IT WIITH GREASE THE LEVEL THE OIL WAS AT.

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Kevin,
Let me just say that original sheer pins are designed to
protect parts from breaking. You might do more damage than good
with a stronger pin. Pepe

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