Thats my thinking allso though it seems they are putting harder bolts in place of the factory soft sheer pins, they seem too be holding up, if not so be it, time for a dunp truck or other large truck axel rinh and pinion gear works, like tom collin says, build it use it, or i will turn it too junk if it cain keep a pace chunking wood. Thats why i dont drive with wood now, dont have heavy enough chunker too cut much over 1" Mostly i need too round up a 3 too 5 horse elec motor. i got about1.5 tone axel from ford that will chunk wood, finding the time too build is the opsticle at the time.
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You are really over thinking this project. The entire reasons the shear bolt on a baler is designed to break somewhat easy is to protect the knotter and the twine fingers from being damaged by the plunger if it gets out of time. Those are expensive repairs that can easly be avoided with the correct shear Bolt. To be honest it would take some seriously big wood to break that bolt as I have cut sticks over 4 inches just baling hay. But there is no way that you will build a chunker for a gasifer which will damage that gearbox.
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Hello Dan alard Thanks for the info on the design of them bailers, i was thinking of maybe fixing up old square bailers at another time, anyway thanks for the design facts, thats part of why i am asking Questains. I seen a working square bailer on face book buy sell trade the other day, probbly needs some work. Are there any good repair manuals too learn from.THANKS.
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So as dan allard said the sheer pin on the fly wheel was not really design too save the gear box, but too keep from damageing the twine cutter components. ALL GOOD TOO KNOW , ALLSO, Are electric motors with spring tentioners should limet and gear box over loads. problly like wayne k said .you can lock the big pulley solid if wanted, chunking wood.
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The one way clutch is worn out on mine. My uncle who gave me the baler just made a tensioner out of a bold and a piece of angle iron that holds the flywheel somewhat firmly but loose enough to still spin. None of his tractors or mine have a constant PTO so the ratcheting system was not necessary.
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If you get that H going you will want the slip clutch working on equipment. Expecally on a brush hog it is common to use those in places where the trees are close…
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Geting the chunker closer too runing, cutting the secondary plate too make the cutting wheel changable.then bolt it too the 1/2" thick plate thats permanet. got the frame built out of some old i beam was lost in the back feild a while, still salvageable.It took a coulple hours too grind the bevel edge on my cutting wheel in progress.
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Looking good Kevin. Now you can chunk up to 4+”
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Thanks mike, i enjoy the welding practice. The rusty steel clean up is another story, next i would like too, or see some of the smarter than i, invent a malti wood chunker in one swipe, Then we could save more time, these single chunkers’ are about like mowing a 5 accer yard with a push mower. Maybe matt rider will get the design and build it bug. The next time the stock market crashes it looking like a big one any day now, fast wood chunker could actually be in high demand. Mean time i should have a good enough too at least chunk slab wood and some larger green logs. My cutter blade is good about 4 too 5 inch, makeing the stops and guilds too day.
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Makeing head way on hay baler wood chunker slicer.
I decided too add a pillow block bearing too the heavy pulley shaft just for longer lasting unit. Lot of weight hanging out there on a 1-5/8" shaft, that was designed for pto center pull clutch. That bearing 1-5/8" bore fit shaft perfect and just happened too be same wide as the spacer behind the pulley and still have room for the azillery brass washer.
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Looking good Kevin. I can’t see the entire construction on the right side, but from what I see, it will not be strong enough. You will need a channel iron from on the right side similar to what you have on the left side. Then maybe a channel or two across the top tieing the two together. Attach the anvil to the channels. TomC
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Right on brother Tom C thanks for the contruction idea, That will keep any twisting from causing damage too componets. Think might shorten the tire too ground clearence too, i miss caculated the hieght. I will probbly add about 4-5 small gussets too the backer plate cutting wheel too. after its working good i plan on putting a peak shed roof over the top for when parked out doors .
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Ok i finally got it ready for the top and some slide in aluminum panels for the sides. Then painted the frame work.
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You will easily win the best looking chunker competition
Now we want to see a short chunking video!
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Thanks for the compliment, I havent tranfered any vidios yet or i can get too that next week, THIS week has been worse than retirement,buisey helping haul fire wood and splitting there firewood, right after getting the chunker built and painted. I Need a slowed down chunker, next long term project.
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Hi all & wood chunk enthousiest, i am thinking of converting an alternator pulley too the 5/8" shaft electric motor, but i dont see how too secure it, is there any one that got a idea too attatch the pullley strait on the shaft, and secure.? I was thinking thead end of shaft, or bolt in the center of shaft,? After fileing a keyway notch. And are the two pulley v belt set up working any good,? THANKS.
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I would have to see a photo of what you are trying to adapt because I am not following the question.
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Trying too adapt these pulleys is posible, though i dont have a machine lathe too make perfect spacer, so i have changed my mind too go ahead and make the investment in a good type chunker pulley,That fits the 5/8" shaft. the pulleys i have are too big for the shaft. so i wont waist any more data, thanks Dan Allard. After thinking about the 3600 rpms the motor turns, decided too buy what ever is working good pulley.Thanks.
My next chunker questain is how are those two pulley v belt set ups working, how wide of v belt needs too be too not twist on the big pulley.
