Hi Joni , i am no expert , but i think all this is , is the wool they shear from sheep and then it goes through a prosses to remove bits washing and combing i think this is after it has been combed before it goes to a spinning wheel to make yarn , if you look at this woman she is carding the raw wool to make it into a batt ready for spinning , this is the stage you want to try and get some wool if you can
Dave
Felted sheep’s wool like in a hat material will give the densest packing flow filtering. Maybe too dense.
Woven 100% sheep’s wool fabric comes in many densities. Men’s dress slacks; to much more open woven coat and blanketing fabrics.
No matter. A 200 to 400 mm cut stack will filter.
Ha! And be light weight.
S.U.
Stive,
I think it might be good, but this design and materials don’t suit me …
and in fact I have already experienced it
Good.Good.
Try is all we were asking.
We honor freedom of choice above all. You are respected for your choosing.
So onto manmade fabrics. Solid rod fibers.
True, rare now, hollow fiber, natural Linen fabric has the best rotting resistance. Was never as popular for clothing or sail making because tight folding for overlapping seaming causes the fibers to break.
Regards
Steve Unruh
I have also used those Micro cloths with good results and Kristijan uses a towel material that he rates highly .
Dave
Ok now back to your gasifier.
I am sorry l have been buissy lately and wasnt able to pay close atention to everything that is going on on the site but if l remember right you evacuate the hopper gases/steam from your gasifier via exhaust venturi right?
Hello Joni .
No worry about offending me 
I welcome and appreciate any constructive criticism and wish we lived close enough to meet . I would really like to ride in your car and would like to offer you a ride in my old truck 
Thanks
Wayne
Joni I have been reading this thread for a while. I am having a hard time understanding how your nozzles/ reaction zone works. Any chance you could explain that to me a little more?
Hi Joni, I just want to say your progressions of gasifers is great. Your cutting the old unit in half and showing how it was built was fantastic. You have inspired me and have convinced me. That I was going end up with a to heavy gasifer again to put on the back of my Subrau Outback. Others did too. “The 3 Barrel Design” . You have found something new in the world of gasification and it shows in your building of your gasifers they are very light weight and do the same or more power gas out put than the heavier weight gasifer of the pass and present. Good job on figuring this out. You are a Master Gasifer builder, it shows in your gasifer design work.
Keep it up on improving the gasifer.
I appreciate what you have done.
I apologize for getting of topic. Back to your gasifer.
Bob
Jakob,
everything is extremely simple, your systems work according to the principle: we burn carbon - we get CO2 - we restore CO2 - we get CO and the reaction of water gas … In fact, these are erroneous opinions. My system works bypassing the phase of carbon oxidation in CO2, since the combustion process of carbon goes through two stages - first it burns to CO and in the second phase to CO2. Both reactions take place with different heat release, and the first is much faster than the second. If you have time to take the gas after the first phase, then the second phase does not occur, as for the reactions with water vapor, they take place separately and according to your statements and with the same results. With the organization of such a passage of fuel carbon oxidation reactions, there is a big difference in the composition of the gas, namely the ratio of CO and CO2. Regarding the hydrogen content, it remains at the level of an ordinary wood-fired gas generator, but CO reaches the level of a charcoal gas generator … If you are interested, I can share a book, everything is set out there from a scientific point of view, it is in Russian, but if you have time then using a translator, you can study it.
From KristijanL on BobMacs the Double Flute Gasifier topic In the near past:
“Bob, just one more thing on CO and H2 production and restriction. I was given a chemist book as a gift from the WWII era. It is old but inorganic chemistry was well known at the time. It says carbon (charcoal) burns (oxidizes) to form CO2. We all know that. But once you cross a certain temperature barrier it starts skipping a step and burns straight C + O2 → CO. What this means is if run any gasifer at a high enough temperature it will not have that classic oxidization zone->reduction zone transition. It just becomes one reduction zone the size of the oxidization zone.
Hope this makes sense.”
And this is me saying: transition steps can be brought down with negative or positive pressures. Or catalysts factors. Some occurring naturally in certain wood species.
S.U.
Yes Steve, I think this is what’s happing in Joni’s gasifer. We all know there is different zones of heat. Like you have said hot, Hot, HOT, AND HOTTER. We also know everything in the gasifer is time related as it functions in gasification. It might be seconds to nanoseconds in the firetube or what I like to call it the reactor because everything is operating to the laws of physics that we know of in gasification. All of Joni’s gasifers 8.0, 9.0, and 10.0 have what I need to run my Subrau on wood, and not charcoal. Wood I can go anywhere find wood prosses it and keep going. Charcoal you are limited on range and that is the simple truth.
Bob
Hi Steve, also go back and look at the cut in half gasifer that Joni provided us to look at. I have snap shot the photo and zoomed in on it. His welds are holding on the part that I can see and he said the gasifer was still operating when he replaced it. If you look closely and study the heat patterns on the metal you can tell this was one very hot area. The bottom of the gasifer barrel has insulation 2 cm according to the diagram with a loose plate on top no welding there. The side of the barrel has
2 cm insulation and a inside shielding around it. This has no welding that I can see attached to the rest of the gasifer. It just fits around the outside of the bottom of the firetube preheater on one side and the bottom of the hopper gas out side. This allows this super hot area the expand and contract with out causeing cracking on the important welded joints. Behind this is more insulation going all the way up to the tar gutter. This stops heat from transferring up into the hopper or bunker area. At this much cooler area is where it is welded to make a complete seal for the gasifer unit. The Gasifier firetube is hanging from the weld tar gutter and can now expland and contract millimeters up and down in and out freely. The reduction plate sits in a grove at the bottom of the fire tube and seals up with ash like most other gasifers, and adjustments can be made here if need.
Now how the hopper or bunker makes the transition in the nozzles area not really sure may be cut the metal and bend shape it and weld it back up. I know I could do it this way and put nozzles in and build the heat cowling around it weld it up. With the way it is done it can expand and contract also.
But with this new method putting a nozzles pipe ring in, this is much easier to install and will receive more heat on all sides, which is very good. I could still make the smooth hopper barrel to fire tube transition with nozzles coming out this would create the hot gases under it, that Max Gasman talks about.
My conclusion is this if metals can expand and contract freely they will not crack as easily. And I am pretty sure I see this in Joni’s build. I like trying to figure things out. I have spent about 5 hours studying this if I am wrong oh well no harm done. It is fun and I like a challenge and a mystery.
Bob
Edit: Hi Joni this is also linked over on my Barrel in a Barrel in a Barrel thread. It was supposed to go there. Thanks for all the help on this I appreciate it very much.
Bob
Hi Joni,
I am glad you are talking with young Jakob North.
He has as one of his projects a stainless steel gasifier.
Ha! I get Hate for saying this but only SS metal woodgas system will be useable past . . . say, 5 years living out in the year around seasonal weather. Upper system carbon steel eating acid. Lower system carbon steel alkaline ash eating. Activated by interval air humidity sweating when sat idle, not heated.
Regards
Steve Unruh
It is true Stainless steel will out last carbon steel. The 2012 hopper and outside barrel and internal gasifer parts are holding up on my truck, but the hopper is getting close to the time of replacing. Hayfilter, dropbox, cooling rails and trees have all been replaced.
Bob
I am a fan of small but massive walled mild steel systems welded together all the way. Other option is Jonis, super thin and flexible SS. To me there is no middle way.
The weld pictured was MIG, although i have welded with TIG but not much and unfortunately don’t have pictures, it may look like TIG and that also may look like SS but it is just cold rolled mild steel instead of hot rolled steel with a mill scale finish and the bead look is from manipulation that I have practiced for a little while.
The important thing to remember Tyler is once you learn a skill no one can take it away from you. So learn as many as you can. 
Thank you for the good advice, and I sure will.